Astrantia

Astrantia photographed last summer at the Dalhousie University- Agricultural 

Campus in Truro, N.S.

There is something magical about the delicate flowers of Masterwort or Astrantia. 

Properly describing the flowers requires botanical terms like inflorescence, bract, and umbel, which has an almost musical ring to it.

Astrantia major 'Roma' photographed in Garden Canadensis in Milton, Ontario

"Inflorescence" refers to how flowers are arranged on a stem or twig of a plant. An "umbel" is one such arrangement.

To get a visual picture of an "umbel" think of the rounded shape an umbrella. In an Astrantia flower, the short flower stalks (pedicels) at the centre of the flower spread out from a single point and are of equal length. This pattern or arrangement of pedicels is known as an umbel. 

A "bract" is simply a modified or specialized leaf that is often found at the base of a flower. In the case of an Astrantia flower, there is a collar of bracts at the base of the umbel.

But you don't have to know any of these fancy terms to appreciate just how lovely Astrantia flowers are.

Astrantia at the Dalhousie University- Agricultural 

Campus in Truro, N.S.

Many notations on growing Astrantia will tell you they will work in everything from full sun to full shade. That's almost true, but in my opinion, it needs some qualifications.

The most important thing to remember about Astrantia is that it likes rich, moist soil. If you plant it in a sunny spot where the soil dries out quickly, your Astrantia will likely perish. With regard to the other extreme, I personally think that full-on shade is taking light conditions one step too far.

You are much more likely to have success in part-shade, if your soil gets a bit dry mid-summer. Even so, this plant will not survive extended periods of drought.

I have my tiny clumps of Astrantia flowers in part-shade. My garden gets very dry in late July-August, so I have to water them to make up for the lack of rainfall. I am writing this based on my own observations. If your experience is different, I'd love to hear.

Astrantia photographed last summer at the Dalhousie University- Agricultural 

Campus in Truro, N.S.

Some commonly available cultivars include:

Astrantia carniolica rubra has maroon-red flowers. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches).

Astrantia major: Greenish-white flowers with greenish bracts tinged with pink. Height: 60-90 cm (23-35 inches), Spread: 60-90 cm (23-35 inches).

Astrantia major 'Lars' has deep rosy-red flowers. Height: 60-70 cm (23-27 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches).

Astrantia major 'Ruby Wedding' has red flowers and reddish stems. Height: 60-70 cm (23-27 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches).

Astrantia major 'Sunningdale Variegated' has greenish-white flowers with a flush of pink. What is unique about this cultivar is the light green leaves splashed with buttery-cream. Height: 60-70 cm (23-27 inches), Spread: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches).

Astrantia major 'Roma'

If you are starting your flowers from seed, you can sow the seed directly into the garden in the fall. In the spring, you have provide some cold stratification to get the seeds to germinate.

To propagate Astrantia by division, divide clumps in early spring.

Astrantia photographed last summer at Dalhousie University-Agricultural 

Campus in Truro, N.S.

My garden doesn't present ideal conditions for growing Astrantia, but I think it is such a nice perennial I am willing to fuss over it a bit. 

In dry mid-summer I'm quite happy to drag out the garden hose just to have these oh-so-pretty flowers.

Plant type: Perennial

Height: Depending on the cultivar: 30-90 cm (1-3 ft)

Spread: Depending on the cultivar: 30-60 cm (1-2.5 ft)

Flower: Depending on the cultivar: white, pink/rose, red and maroon

Bloom period: Early spring

Leaf color: green and a variegated cultivar are available

Light: Part-shade to sun (where soil is moist)

Growing Conditions: Rich soil and moist growing conditions

Companion Plants: Astilbe, Ferns, Hosta

Divide: In early spring

Notes: Remove flowers to encourage new flowers and prevent self-seeding.

Problems: Mildew, slugs and aphids

USDA Zones: 4-9

Beginning at the End

This past weekend Toronto hosted garden bloggers from around the world. For me, the Garden Bloggers Fling was a wonderful opportunity to meet some many of the bloggers I feel I know well, but have never actually met.

The final event of the three day Fling was a buffet dinner held at the Toronto Botanical Garden. As well as great food and good company, there were marvellous plant combinations to be seen in the gardens. Here are a few highlights:

Blue Star, Amsonia tabernaemontana var. salicifolia + Salvia x sylvestris 'May Night' 

+ False Indigo, Baptisia 'Purple Smoke' + Salvia nemerosa 'Amethyst' 

Salvia x sylvestris 'May Night' has deep violet-blue flowers. This medium sized Salvia tolerates heat and humidity and is drought tolerant once established. Cut back the plant hard after it blooms to rejuvenate the foliage and encourage a second round of flowers. Full sun. Normal, sandy and clay soil are all fine for this plant. It can also tolerate anything from moist to dry conditions once established. Height 45-60 cm (18-23 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9

False Indigo, Baptisia 'Purple Smoke' is a recent introduction from the North Carolina Botanical Garden. This plant forms a nice upright mound of bright green foliage. Smoky-blue flowers are carried on dark green stems mid-spring. Normal, sandy and clay soil are all fine for this plant. It can also tolerate anything from moist to dry conditions once established. Divide plants every 4 to 5 years. Height: 100-135 cm ( 39-53 inches), Spread: 75-90 cm (29-35 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Masterwart, Astrantia major 'Roma' has wonderful pink starry flowers. This perennial likes moist conditions in sun or part shade. Sandy or clay soil is best. Remove spent flowers to encourage more buds and to prevent it from self-seeding everywhere. Height: 60-70 cm (23-27 inches), Spread: 45-50 cm (18-20 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

Angelica 

I love the height and architecture of this plant.

Amsonia ciliata 'Spring Sky'

Perennial Sage, Salvia 'Madeline' was bred and introduced by Piet Oudolf. This sage has violet-blue flowers with a white lip. It will grow in a range of soil types and is drought tolerant once established. Height:70-85 cm (27-33 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Phlomis tuberosa 'Amazone' is a recent introduction to North America, so the bad news is that this particular cultivar may be a little hard to track down and find. When not in flower this plant makes a large mound of coarse green leaves. Flower shoot skyward on these incredible reddish colored stems. Once finished flowering the spent flowers continue to add architectural interest well into winter. Normal or sandy soil that is on the dry side is best for this plant. Full sun. Height: 90-120 cm (35-47 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 2-9.

Peony lactiflora 'Krinkled White' + False Indigo, Baptisia 'Purple Smoke' in the distance

Perennial Sage, Salvia nemerosa 'Amethyst' has tall spikes of rosy-purple flowers mid-spring. Full sun and well drained soil. Height: (12-30 inches), Spread: (24-36 inches). USDA Zones: 5-11.

Purple Smoke Bush + Astrantia + Allium

Purple Smoke Bush, Cotinus is a shrub that left to its own devises can grow into a tree. It can reach a height of 12 feet and can spread to 12 feet. It requires full sun and can be grown in a variety of soils. USDA Zones: 4-9.

I have never grown these, but believe them to be Stars of Persia, Allium christophii.

Stars of Persia, Allium christophii are a bulbous perennial.  They have grey-green leaves and a flowerhead with star-shaped flowers that have a slight metallic sheen. Flower heads dry well. Full sun in rich, well-drained soil. Height : 45-60 cm (18-24 inches), Spacing 15-22 cm ( 6-9 inches) USDA Zones: 4-9.

False Indigo, Baptisia (Specific yellow colored cultivar unknown) + the tall pink spires of Phlomis tuberosa 'Amazone' + blue colored Baptisia australis (on the left).

Some yellow cultivars of Baptisia you might want to consider: Baptisia 'Solar Flare', Baptisia 'Carolina Moonlight' and Baptisia 'Lemon Meringue'.) 

Unknown peony cultivar. Quite likely Peony lactiflora 'Sarah Bernhardt'

Unknown single white Peony.

Unknown variety of Catmint. Here are two cultivars you may want to consider:

Blue Catmint, Nepeta racemosa 'Walker's Low' is a long blooming perennial (if regularly deadheaded) that has a mounded, bushy habit. It has grey-green foliage and blue flowers. Full sun. Height: 60-90 cm (23-35 inches), Spread: 75-90 cm ( 29-35 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

Nepeta x faassenii 'Blue Wonder' is a bit more compact. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 38-45 cm (15-18 inches). USDA Zones 3-9.

Catmint, Nepeta + Salvia x sylvestris 'May Night'

Many thanks to the Fling Committee: Helen Battersby, her sister Sarah Battersby, Lorraine Flanigan, and Veronica Silva. Thanks also to all the bus captains and other volunteers who worked so hard to make this year's Garden Bloggers Fling so much fun! 

To see some other Fling highlights check out the Garden Blogger's Fling Facebook page.

Many apologies, I am well behind on returning visits. 

I promise to catch up with everyone in the next few days.

A Secret Garden: Part 2, The Shade Garden and Pond

 
Astilbe

In this, the second in the series of posts on Carole's garden near Uxbridge Ontario, we will take a closer look at the pond and shade gardens.

When Carole and her husband Frank first bought their home, there was nothing more than a natural stream and a low lying, boggy area in the space where the pond is currently located.

Here is a similar view of the pond area as it looks in now. Quite the change!

Carole's husband is not a gardener, but Carole tells me that one of the many ways in which Frank  helps out is to pull her around in a dingy, so she can do some pond gardening.

Along the perimeter of the pond there are moisture loving plants like this pink Astilbe and 

this purple Japanese Iris (below).

A Japanese Iris with blue Veronica in behind and a repeat flowering daylily in the foreground.

Japanese Irises: Japanese Irises need at least 6 hours of sunlight to bloom properly. They also require ample moisture especially up until bloom time. They will also be much healthier plants if the soil is moist throughout the summer. (A heavy mulch of 2-3 inches can help to conserve moisture.) They like a slightly acidic soil that is a rich in organic matter.

This is a "Before" photograph of what was to become the shade garden. Carole tells me:

"I put a shade garden here because there was a grouping of fairly large birch trees, however when we added the top soil to prepare the bed and raise the grade we killed all but one tree. We knew that this would probably happen, but we needed to get the low lying area to drain properly. Luckily our neighbour had a number of young birch saplings which they gave to us. We replanted the birch grove and it has grown up nicely."

Here is a similar view of the shade garden in present day. Again an amazing transformation!

On the perimeter of the birch trees is this part-shade bed where there are Heuchera, Hosta, Astrantia, Astilbe, Solomon's Seal, Lady's Mantle and Sedge grass.

In the shade garden proper, you will see that Carole has done a really nice job of mixing 

leaf shape, size, color and texure.

The shade garden is not without flowers. Carole relates that:

" I like to use etherial plants and bulbs under my hostas so I get an early bloom before the leaves come on the trees and the hostas cover them up. I use dwarf Daffodils, Scilla, Virginia Blue Bells, Sanguinaria canadiensis or Bloodroot (both the native and double varieties). I also mix in Primulas, Pulmonarias, Brunnera and Disporum or Fairy bells. I like to let these naturalize through the garden."

Single and Double Bloodroot or Sanguinaria canadiensis and Sanguinaria canadiensis 'multiplex' respectively: The single form of Bloodroot has 8-16 petals with a golden centre. The double form resembles a waterlily flower. Both have large, round leaves with deep lobes. Bloodroot gets its name from its rhizomes which contain a red juice. They like shade to part-shade and moist soil that is rich in organic matter. In April or early May flower buds appear wrapped protectively inside the leaf, which open as the flower emerges.

In addition, Carole says that:

" I grow all kinds of Hosta, Ligularias, Mudenkia, Percicaria, Astilbe, Snakeroot and daylilies on the fringes of the shade garden."

Throughout the shade garden Carole has added large bottles and oversized glass vases.

As I am sure you can imagine maintaining a garden as large as Carole's must take a lot of work. I asked her if she has any strategies to make the workload easier. Carole replied that in fall:

"I cut all my plants back in fall to 3-4" and clear out any weeds that may have escaped me through the season. This is also when I put down any manure mulch the garden needs.

I also do any rearranging or dividing in fall. It is nice and cool and there are no bugs!

I like to blow the leaves off my shade garden in fall, shred them and put them back around the around the plants. I know that this is extra work, but the leaves break down faster. The shredding also prevents smaller bulbs from being "drowned out", there is less chance of mould developing and it looks nicer."

In spring, Carole advises that:

"I start in the garden as soon as I can. I use a hand trowel, scissors and a long handled claw. I hand dig any perennial weeds (dandelions, grass etc.) that may have come up. Any annual weeds I just claw over. If you do this once a week or at least every two weeks for 4-6 weeks, you will find you have eliminated most of your weeds. You have to be relentless or the weeds can take over.

After that you spend your time deadheading. I do not let my plants go to seed as it makes for a very messy garden and it is harder to keep your plants separated."

I asked Carole for one final bit of advice for those gardeners who still struggle with the reality of gardening in shade. She replied:

"My best advice is to experiment with different plants as not all "shade" is the same and the garden is ever changing."

I have saved the best for last. In the final post in the series, we will visit what I think is Carole's masterpiece: the backyard garden.

Have a wonderful weekend!