The Final Frontier + What's Blooming this Week

It all started with the tomato seedlings I bought back in May. The tomatoes had grown so well that they were on the verge of being potbound. Either they needed bigger pots or they had to be planted out in the garden. We're travelling in the early part of July, so I figured they'd have a better chance of survival if they were planted in the ground.

But where to plant them?

In a flash of inspiration, I convinced my husband to dismantle an old workbench he no longer used and make me a raised garden bed for the tomatoes. The workbench was rough pine, which isn't the best choice for a raised bed (rot-resistant hardwoods like cedar and redwood are generally recommended), but hey, it meant a second life for the unused workbench.

The need to clear an area for the raised bed became the next big project. There is one corner of the garden that has been a thorn in my side for years. It's a mix of goutweed, ditch daylilies, self-seeded geraniums and Double Soapwort, Saponaria officinalis (all very invasive). I have come to think of this area as the final frontier– one of the last big areas of the garden I have to tackle.

Last week I cut all the invasive plants right to the ground and then my husband rototilled the area. This week I have been raking the ground level and covering it with a layer of cardboard and mulch. It will have to rest for the remainder of the season to make sure all the invasive plants under the cardboard don't come back next spring.

The markings on the workbench are still visible. I told my husband I thought the measurements and illustrations were a nice bit of industrial chic.

What are my plans for the final frontier? 

It will be a spot to grow tomatoes or other veggies, a permanent home for my two cold frames and we hope to build a DIY greenhouse. There will also be a little courtyard with a small metal table and chairs. So stay tuned for pictures of these new projects.

Another project I completed last week was my thyme lawn. 

Most of the hard work had been done last fall. Our soil is heavy clay, so the first thing I had to do was improve the drainage. Thyme is a Mediterranean herb that loves free draining, nutrient-poor soil. 

So I dug out most of the clay and mixed in fine gravel and sand to what remained.

Thyme plugs that I got on sale at a grocery store garden centre.

The package of bulk thyme seeds from McKenzie Seeds.

I planted plugs of thyme last September and again this spring. They're filling in slowly, but in the meantime, the weeds have discovered the open ground. When I spotted a bulk package of thyme seeds at Walmart, I thought I would give growing plants from seed a try. 

The package instructions for sowing a thyme lawn are fairly simple. The ground needs to be raked to loosen the soil and then the seeds scattered over the prepared area (organic vermiculite is mixed with the fine seeds to aid even distribution). Finally, the seeds need to be raked in and the area watered with a gentle spray.

The package of bulk seeds gives me enough for a second application if need be. Hopefully, it will fill in to make a dense carpet like this!

Across from the bench and the sundial is a mature lilac. It's an odd spot that gets a full range of light conditions; sun on the outer rim, part-sun and full shade. Hostas would have worked well, but I wanted to do something a little different, so a created a flowerbed devoted largely to hardy geraniums.

 Geranium 'Aunty Marge' is one of my favourites. Too bad it is not sold commercially anymore.

The area near the lilac as it looks now.

I want to show you some of the other things that are blooming right now. In the front garden, the white Gas Plant is finishing while the peonies and roses are in full flower.

The view out the front door.

One of my birdbath container plantings.

 Penstemon 'Husker Red'

The Euonymus arch just inside the back gate has grown so heavy it has snapped the wooden support. We have yet to figure out what to do about it. Right now, it's being held together with two metal poles and some rough pieces of lumber.

I moved these Lupins in the early spring and wasn't sure they'd still flower.  As you can see, they look lovely with the Catmint 'Walker's Low' and the Penstemon 'Husker Red'.

'Cherokee' Clematis which is part of the Boulevard series of patio clematis. It only grows 4-5 ft.

My favourite Amsonia

Amsonia 'Blue Ice' has dark blue buds that open into soft lavender-blue flowers. This is a nice compact plant that looks great at the front of a flowerbed. It is slow to establish but long-lived. Full sun. Height: 35-40 cm (14-16 inches) Spread: 45-60 (14-18 inches). USDA zones:4-9.

 Astrantia likes moist soil, so I have struggled to get it established. 

It's liking all the rain we had this spring!

Astrantia major rubra has lovely starry flowers that are rosy-red. Average to moist soil. Full sun to partial shade. Height: 75-90 cm (29-35 inches) Spread: 45-60 (18-23 inches). USDA zones:3-9.

Phlomis tuberosa 'Amazone' When not in flower, this plant makes a large mound of coarse green leaves. Flowers shoot skyward on these incredible reddish colored stems. Once finished flowering, spent flowers continue to add architectural interest well into winter. Normal or sandy soil that is on the dry side is best for this plant. Full sun. Height: 90-120 cm (35-47 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA Zones: 2-9.

I am showing you this picture so you can place the next image in the context of the whole garden. The Beauty Bush is just stunning at this time of year!

Beauty Bush, Kolkwitzia has pale pink flowers and a fountain shape with branches that hang in long, sweeping arcs. Full sun. Height: 8-10', Spread: 8-10' USDA Zones: 5-9.

 I am trying to include a little more peach in the garden.

Rose, Rosa 'At Last' from Proven Winners® has popsicle-peach flowers that are nicely fragrant. The foliage is glossy and disease-resistant. Repeat flowering without the need to deadhead. Full sun. Height: 76-91 cm (30-36 inches) Spread: 76-91 (30-36 inches). USDA zones:5-9.

A few plants that might inspire shade gardeners. These foxgloves are self-sown and very willful. They like to pop up on the perimeter but never inside my raised beds.

Lady Fern, Athyrium filix-femina' Lady-in-Red'

Lady Fern, Athyrium filix-femina' Lady-in-Red' has light green foliage with reddish stems. Rich, evenly moist, well-drained soil is key to growing this fern successfully. Part-shade to full shade. Height: 45-60 cm (18-24 inches) Spread: 45-60 (18-24 inches). USDA zones:4-8.

Love this hosta!

Hosta 'Snake Eyes' has medium green leaves with a light green centre framed with a creamy-white edge. The flowers are lavender. Part-shade to full shade. Height: 55-60 cm (21-23 inches), Spread: 110-120 cm (43-47 inches). USDA zones: 2-9.

Aruncus 'Misty Lace' has feathery-white flowers and fern-like foliage. It is a more compact form of Goat's Beard that would work well in a small to medium-sized garden. Height: 60-75 cm (23-29 inches), Spread: 45-60 cm (18-23 inches). USDA zones: 3-9.

We've been super busy (hence the lack of blog posts!). The pond is all dug out, but the stream and waterfall still need to be addressed. The days never seem to be long enough to get everything done.

Making a Circular Thyme Courtyard

Spring is so busy and summer is too hot, so it seems that fall is the time I tend to tackle big garden projects. 

The work on this newest project actually began over a year ago. A temporary shed had finally been removed leaving behind a scruffy area of lawn and a row of rather bedraggled looking cedars. After the ugly cedars were cut down, I was left with a fairly blank slate. I could do just about anything I wanted to do. 

The area in question was not without its challenges. For starters, the soil ranged from poor to heavy clay. Light levels were a diverse mix of conditions. Within a matter of a few feet, the amount of sunlight could shift from full sun to full shade. Most of our backyard is flat and even, but this one section of the yard slopes down as much as a foot.

I started with the soil, which is where all garden planning must really begin. The horrible clay soil was amended to allow better drainage. Rich black topsoil was added to improve the quality of the poor soil and raise the grade up to be level the rest of the yard. While I can describe this work in two quick sentences, the task took all of my spare time last fall.

The area I am describing is a large space that includes what will eventually be a stream with a wooden bridge, a small pond, a generous flowerbed and a small courtyard with a wooden bench. To keep this post a manageable length, I am going to focus in on one small part of the larger project– the circular courtyard of thyme with the wooden bench.

The starting point for this courtyard was a concrete column with Celtic-inspired ornamentation.  I bought the column on clearance a few years back with no particular use in mind, but confident that I would eventually find a place for it in the garden. When I came across the sundial at a home goods store, I knew it was the perfect topper for the Celtic column.

A sundial is basically a primitive clock that tells the time of day based on the position of the sun. An armillary sundial, like the one I have, has a fixed rod or gnomon (in this case an arrow) that represents the polar axis of the sky as seen from Earth. 

My inexpensive sundial is more decorative than anything else, and one of the round sphere's is broken, so I am putting a proper replacement high on my wishlist for Christmas.

 Geranium 'Rozanne' is one of the many hardy geraniums that I added to this part of the garden.

 Most hardy geraniums bloom in June, but Geranium 'Rozanne' blooms much later. Come late summer and fall, you'll be so glad you planted it!

Creeping Thyme

Plants inspired me as well. On the part-shade/shade fringes of my courtyard, I decided to feature hardy geraniums as an alternative to commonly used shade plants like hosta (more on the hardy geraniums another time). 

For the courtyard itself, I wanted to lay down a ground covering of thyme. Thyme is one of those plants that can take a fair amount of foot traffic. Creating a steppable lawn of thyme is something I have dreamed about making for years. Until now I didn't have a sunny spot available. 

Thyme is a Mediterranean herb that likes full sun and hot, dry conditions. It can be a bit of a challenge to get it to overwinter here in Southern Ontario. The last thing thyme likes are freezing temperatures and soggy clay soil! 

To improve its odds for survival you need to provide thyme with really sharp drainage. The soil in my little courtyard was horrible grey clay. To improve the drainage, I dug out the top 6-8 inches of clay. Then I mixed into the remaining soil bags of fine gravel and sand. Hopefully, that will do the trick of improving the drainage! 

The garden at sunset in September 2018.

A circular courtyard with a sundial at its centre fits in perfectly with the rest of the garden's design. 

Circles a recurring element. There is a round seating area in the middle of the garden. When you walk further down the central path and pass through the wooden arbour, there is a large circular garden with an urn at its centre. 

How to Make a Garden that's a Perfect Circle

The first step in making a circular garden is deciding where you want the centre of your circle. The centre can be quite arbitrary based on whatever is pleasing or it could be based on preexisting elements in the garden's design.  

I already had flowerbeds, a bench and a central pathway in place. We used a tape measure to determine the midway point between the bench on one side and the flowerbed on the other. Then we found the centre point between the outside edge of the pathway (seen on the righthand side of the photo) and a flowerbed on the opposite side. The intersection of those two measurements gave us the centre of what would be my circle.

Once you find the centre, you can start to map out the outline of your circle. A simple measuring device makes the job easy. 

Using a rubber mallet place a rounded, verticle pole at the centre point of your circle. The pole could be anything handy; a wooden dowel or even a broomstick handle. Attach a length of rope to your pole (Note: choose a rope that will not easily stretch). Pull the rope out until it reaches the outside edge of your circle. Tie a 6-inch galvanized spike to end of the rope. 

Swivel your rope around the pole marking the stops around the circumference of the circle with galvanized spikes. As a demonstration, I have marked out part of a circle (seen above).

Once the galvanized spikes are placed around the circumference of the circle, you will have a pretty clear guide, but tieing and then wrapping some twine around each of the spikes will make the outline even more distinct.

I knew I would be working on this project over a couple of weeks, so I decided to use an old rubber hose to mark the perimeter of my circle.

I am by no means an expert at laying brick. There is probably a hardscaping professional out there that will cringe upon seeing my DIY methods. I'll tell you what I did to lay down my circle of bricks, but this is in no way a tutorial! 

With an edger, I dug in to mark the outer edge of my circle. Then I widened it into a trench that was big enough to accommodate my bricks. When the trench was finished, I levelled and compacted the soil. Then I added sand, compacted and levelled it. When I was happy with my work, I laid the brick and firmed it down with a rubber mallet. The final step was to fill the cracks between the bricks with sand.

Getting the sand flat and even took the vast majority of my time. That being said, things progressed fairly quickly. 

To compliment sundial and play up the celestial theme even further, I decided to create a stylized sun with a circle of precast edging and radiating lines of bricks (you can easily find this scalloped edging at Rona, Lowes or Home Depot).

The bricks mimicking the rays of the sun were by far the fiddliest part of this job. With my husband's help, I laid out my pattern of bricks (we eye-balled the placement of the bricks rather than doing any measurements).  

Once the bricks were laid out, I used one of the galvanized spikes to trace the brick's outline in the dirt. Using that outline as my guide, I dug a trench. The rocky ground was levelled and compacted. Sand was added, levelled and compacted as well. Finally, the bricks went in and the gaps were filled with sand.

So far there is just a smattering of Creeping Thyme planted in the gravelly soil. I will add lots more thyme next spring. Hopefully, all the hard work I did to improve the soil's drainage will pay off and it will spread quickly to create a dense lawn-like groundcover. 

I should also make mention the plantings at the base of the sundial. Presently I have a mix of Calamintha and Russian Sage. The sage was a dwarf variety, but it's quickly proven to be too big for such a small area. In the spring, I will move the sage to a new spot in the garden and replace it with one of two varieties of blue Catmint.

Dwarf Calamint, Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepta: has arching sprays of pale mauve-blue flowers. The foliage of this plant has a minty fragrance. Full sun or light shade. It tolerates average, dry and moist growing conditions and is suitable for normal, sandy or clay soils. Bees love it! Height: 20-30 cm, Spread 30-45 cm Hardy USDA Zones 4-9.

I will probably go with one of these two:

Blue Catmint, Nepeta racemosa 'Walker's Low' is a long blooming perennial that has a mounded, bushy habit. It has grey-green foliage and blue flowers. Full sun. Height: 60-90 cm (23-35 inches), Spread: 75-90 cm ( 29-35 inches). USDA Zones: 3-9.

Nepeta x faassenii 'Blue Wonder' is a bit more compact. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 38-45 cm (15-18 inches). USDA Zones 3-9.

Despite the fact that the thyme is really patchy, but I am rather pleased with the way the whole thing came together.

When you walk over the bridge and into my garden, it surrounds and envelopes you and I love that!

You may be wondering about the very pretty plant on the righthand side of my picture (above). It is Eupatorium rugosum 'Chocolate'. 

Eupatorium rugosum 'Chocolate' has really attractive maroon-brown foliage in the spring. The tops of the leaves turn olive-green as the summer progresses, but the undersides of the leaves the plant's stems remain a nice contrasting shade of chocolate throughout the gardening season. In full sun, 'Chocolate' needs moist soil. In part-shade, it will tolerate somewhat drier conditions but it still prefers regular water. 'Chocolate' has flat clusters of starry white flowers in late summer/fall. It is important to deadhead the flowers to avoid self-seeding. 'Chocolate' will not come true from seed. Deer resistant. Height: 90-120 cm (35-47 inches), Spread: 75-90 cm (29-35 inches). USDA zones: 5-9.

A new grey bench replaces an old white one that you may remember seeing in previous pictures (We found it on clearance at Lowes).  

My husband made the tall wooden obelisk beside the bench. Eventually, I hope it will be smothered in the blooms of a Clematis viticella that has blue bell-shaped flowers.

Containers dressed for fall.

Piper's favourite lookout spot is the little bridge.

My final project for the year is to lay a brick path between the bridge and the arbour you see in the distance.

Here's hoping the temperatures remain warm enough for me to get the pathway completed!

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