Baptisia: How to Grow It + Newly Introduced Cultivars

One task I am not particularly looking forward to this spring is uprooting and moving a mature False Indigo, Baptisia australis. It's been in the same spot for at least a decade. It's not going to be easy to unearth its deep roots, but sadly it has to be done.

A garden like mine could easily be a full-time job, but the reality is that I have an average of just two to four hours a day to spend on it. When I added a new flowerbed to the backyard last summer, I did it knowing that something else would have to give. There was no way I could manage more garden in the same amount of time.

With a heavy heart, I decided to reduce the size of the front garden in favour of the more private backyard space. So last fall I moved just about everything but ran out of time before I could tackle the biggest job– the Baptisia you see in the picture above.

Spring is a terrible time to move it (it blooms in spring, so the fall would have been a little better), but it's a task that has to be finished.

Baptisia australis is a magnificent plant that demands very little. Fingers crossed I don't kill it!

Native Baptisia australis was used to produce a blue dye by Native Americans.

Baptisia australis is a native plant that can be found in woods, tickets and along stream banks in an area that stretches from southern Pennsylvania to North Carolina and Tennessee. It has purply-blue flower spikes and bluish-green leaves that make me think of peas or clover (it is a member of the pea family). Spent flowers become long, rounded seedpods that age to become deep charcoal.

As well as Baptisia australis, there is native Baptisia alba, which has white flowers and Baptisia tinctoria, which has yellow blooms. Baptisia minor is a smaller plant.

How to Grow Baptisia:

False Indigo, Baptisia australis can be grown in average to quite poor, well-drained soil. It can handle a little bit of light shade, but it would be much happier if you planted it in full sun. When it first emerges in the spring the fresh shoots of Baptisia australis are quite upright. The plant opens up slowly through it's blooming phase and becomes more of a vase shape.

This is a large, long-lived perennial. Think small shrub when you try to place it in the garden (Note: there are a few new cultivars that are more compact in size).

Baptisia requires patience. It grows quite slowly and may take a few years to get really established. As it grows, it develops deep and extensive roots that make moving it very difficult, so choose a spot carefully and stick with it.

The good news is Baptisia is very undemanding and virtually pest-free. I chop mine to the ground in the fall and that's just about all I do.

The reward is a spring showstopper that will be well worth the wait. As it has done in my garden,
Baptisia australis continues to grow and bloom in the same spot for decades.

Propagation:

Baptisia can be grown from seed, but you're in for a long wait. It may take as long as three years to see even a few flowers. I'd recommend investing in a decent sized nursery plant instead.

Once your Baptisia is established you can propagate new plants from stem cuttings in early spring.  I've tried it and it is fairly easy to do. Each cutting needs one set of leaf buds.

Plant type: Perennial

Height & Spread: Depending on the cultivar: 3-5 ft high x 5-6 ft wide

Flower: A range of colors including indigo-blue, yellow, white, pink, purple, lavender, maroon & bi-colors

Bloom period: Early spring

Leaf color: Fresh green to grey-green

Light: Full sun

Growing Conditions: Average to poor well-drained soil

Water requirements: Fairly drought tolerant once established

Companion Plants: Blue Star, Salvia, Gas Plant, Peony, Iris

Divide: This is a long-lived perennial that likes to stay put, but it can be divided every 4-5 years.

Notes: Deer resistant & pretty much pest-free.

USDA Zones: 4-9

Baptisia 'Vanilla Cream'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners® 

Modern Cultivars

If you've haven't heard of Baptisia yet, there's a reason. They mature slowly, so I doubt they are a quick cash crop for growers. 

They're also a bit gangly and awkward in a nursery pot. The flowers on a young potted plant are small and don't exactly scream "buy me!" 

But the popularity this plant is growing and breeders have responded with new and exciting color choices. Here's a quick look at some of the many cultivars now available:

'Purple Smoke' 

'Purple Smoke'  makes a perfect backdrop for this Salvia. The Toronto Botanical Garden in spring.

False Indigo, Baptisia 'Purple Smoke' is a recent introduction from the North Carolina Botanical Garden. Smoky-blue flowers are carried on dark green stems and foliage. Height: 100-135 cm ( 39-53 inches), Spread: 75-90 cm (29-35 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Cultivars with Similar Colors:

Baptisia 'Lunar Eclipse' (not shown) is initially creamy-lemon and ages into a medium to dark violet producing a pretty two-toned effect.
Baptisia 'Starlight Prairieblues' has lavender flowers.

Baptisia 'Pink Truffles'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners® 

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® Deluxe 'Pink Truffles' has soft pink flowers that appear atop a compact clump of deep blue-green foliage. The flowers lighten to lavender with age. This is a smaller sized cultivar. Height: 107-122 cm (42-48 inches), Spread: 152-183 (60-72 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

'Pink Lemonade'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners® 

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® Deluxe 'Pink Lemonade' has soft yellow flowers that age to dusty raspberry-purple showing both colors at the same time. Height: 106-121 cm (42-48 inches), Spread: 116-121 cm (46-48 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

Cultivars with Similar Colors:

Baptisia 'Solar Flare' has two-toned yellow and rusty-orange flowers.

Baptisia 'Vanilla Cream'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners® 

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® Deluxe 'Vanilla Cream' has pastel yellow buds that open into vanilla flowers. The compact foliage emerges bronze in spring and becomes grey-green. This cultivar was selected for its petite size and unique flowers. Height: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches), Spread: 90-106 cm (36 - 42 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

Baptisia 'Dutch Chocolate'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners®  

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® Deluxe 'Dutch Chocolate' has velvety chocolate-purple flowers above a compact, relatively short mound of deep blue-green foliage. This vigorous cultivar is well-suited to smaller urban gardens. Height: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches), Spread: 90-106 cm (36 - 42 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

Cultivars with Similar Colors:

Baptisia 'Brownie Points' has two-toned yellow and caramel-brown flowers.
Baptisia 'Cherries Jubilee' has two-toned yellow and maroon flowers.
Baptisia 'Twilight Prairieblues' has smoky purple flowers.

'Sparkling Sapphires'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners®  

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® 'Sparkling Sapphires' has deep violet-colored flowers on a compact plant with deep blue-green foliage. Height: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches), Spread: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

Cultivars with Similar Colors:

Baptisia 'Blue Towers' has periwinkle-blue flowers.
Baptisia 'Blueberry Sundae' has deep indigo-blue flowers.
Baptisia 'Indigo Spires' has deep reddish-purple flowers.
Baptisia 'Midnight Prairie blues' has deep purple flowers.

Baptisia 'Lemon Meringue'. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners® 

False Indigo, Baptisia Decadence® Deluxe 'Lemon Meringue' is a vigorous cultivar that has lemon-yellow flowers on a compact, upright mound of blue-green foliage. Height: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches), Spread: 76-90 cm (30-36 inches). USDA zones: 4-9.

 Baptisia 'Carolina Moonlight' and a Salvia at its feet. Private garden, Fergus Ontario.

Baptisia 'Carolina Moonlight'  Private garden, Toronto, Ontario.

Yellow False Indigo, Baptisia 'Carolina Moonlight' has blue-green foliage with canary-yellow flowers. Height: 120-135 cm (47-53 inches), Spread: 80-90 cm (31-35 inches). USDA Zones: 4-9.

Note:You can find more information on the Proven Winners® cultivars at Provenwinners.com

Ideas for Companion Planting:

Plant Baptisia in the company of other spring bloomers including Gas Plant, Dictamnus Albus Blue Star, Amsonia, Bearded Iris, Peony, Catmint, Nepeta and Salvia.

 Yellow and blue Baptisia with pink flowering Phlomis tuberosa 'Amazone'. The Toronto Botanical Garden in spring.

Baptisia and Blue Star, Amsonia in my garden.

Baptisia and pale yellow Bearded Iris. Private garden, Toronto, Ontario.

Yellow Baptisia in the background with Catmint, Salvia and Elderberry, Sambucus racemosa 'Lemony Lace'. Private garden, Toronto, Ontario.

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Hydrangeas: Care Basics/ Old & New Varieties

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blue Wave' in the Heritage Garden, Annapolis N.S.

If you have been following this blog for awhile, you'll know that I like hydrangeas. Not only do the bloom for ages, it's interesting to watch the flowers change in color and appearance as they age. Even when the blooms fade to tawny-brown and are covered in frost crystals or white winter snow, they have a certain melancholy beauty.

So many shrubs bloom in the spring, but hydrangeas offer flowers that look attractive from mid-summer well into fall. Given the appropriate conditions, they are also pretty easy to grow. A range of sizes and flower colors means there is a hydrangea for almost any garden.

A few key Hydrangea Terms:

Lacecap (Hydrangea paniculata 'Quick Fire')

Lacecap refers to the arrangement of florets that make up the flower. In a lacecap hydrangea, there are a large number of smaller florets surrounded by an outer ring of showy florets. 

Mophead refers to big, round, ball-like hydrangea flowers.

Mophead (Unknown cultivar)

The two flower types combined in a Mississauga, Ontario garden

Key Terms for Pruning: Old wood simply describes growth from the previous season. Big leaf (H. Macrophylla), Mountain (H. Serrata), Oakleaf (H. Quercifolia) and Climbing hydrangeas (H. Petiolaris) all flower on old wood. 

New wood describes the growth that a hydrangea has in the current season. Smooth (H. Arborescens) and Panicle (H. Paniculata) hydrangeas both flower on new wood.

Six Basic Types of Hydrangeas:

There are six main types of hydrangeas grown here in North America. 

Hydrangea Macrophylla (seen on the left) also known as Big Leaf, Florist's Hydrangea, Mophead or Lacecap

• Hardy to USDA zone 5.

• Blooms on old wood: Do not prune!

• Old wood needs protection in winter

Varieties: Endless Summer Series, Cityline series, Abracadabra series of hydrangeas

Hydrangea Paniculata (seen on the right) also known as Panicle Hydrangea or PeeGee Hydrangea

• Hardy to USDA zone 3.

• Blooms on new wood: Prune in late winter or early spring

Varieties: 'Bobo', 'Firelight', 'Limelight', 'Little Lime', 'Pinky Winky', 'Quick Fire', 'Little Quick Fire'

Hydrangea Arborescens (on the left) also known as Smooth or Annabelle Hydrangea

• Hardy to USDA zone 3.

• Blooms on new wood: Prune in late winter or early spring.

Varieties: Annabelle, Proven Winner's Incrediball series, Invincibelle series, and Spirit series

Hydrangea Petiolaris (on the right) also known as Climbing Hydrangea

• Hardy to USDA zone 4.

• Prune right after it flowers.

Hydrangea Serrata (not shown) also known as Mountain Hydrangea

• Hardy to USDA zone 5.

• Blooms on old wood so, do not prune.

Varieties: Proven Winners Tuff Stuff series.

Hydrangea Quercifolia (shown above) also known as Oakleaf Hydrangea

• Hardy to USDA zone 5 with some winter protection.

• Blooms on old wood so, do not prune.

Varieties: Proven Winners Gatsby series.

Private Garden Niagara-on-the-Lake

Selecting a Hydrangea:

Generally we tend to think one plant/one set of growing conditions, but hydrangeas are quite varied in both their attributes and their preferences. Most hydrangeas like morning sun (4 hours of sun) and a little shade in the afternoon, but some hydrangeas will cope better with sun and dry conditions than others. Hydrangea Paniculata are the most sun tolerant and can even take full sun in a northern garden zone.

Hydrangeas have shallow roots so generally they like plenty of water, especially when getting established. That being said, hydrangeas offer varying levels of drought tolerance. For example, I have a Big Leaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea Macrophylla) that mightily resents the dry summer we are experiencing this year. It wilts even in the morning sun, unless I pamper it with water. A little closer to the house is a Hydrangea Paniculata 'Quick Fire' that is dealing with the lack of rainfall like a real trooper. 

The best thing to do when selecting a hydrangea is to carefully read the plant label, or even better, do a little research with regard to each hydrangea's compatibility to your garden's growing conditions before you head to a garden centre or nursery to make your purchase.

Private Garden Niagara-on-the-Lake

Planting a Hydrangea:

Hydrangeas can be planted in the spring or the fall. Once you have chosen your location, dig a hole as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. When it comes to soil, hydrangeas like moist, well-drained soil, but never wet feet. If your soil is poor, amend it with some compost or leaf mold. 

Set the hydrangea in the hole. You want the top of the root ball to be level with the soil. Backfill and water well until it is established. (Tip: Laying down a layer of mulch after planting will help the soil retain its moisture.)

Private garden, Glen Williams Ontario

Pruning:

If you are confused about when and how to pruning a hydrangea, you aren't the only one! 

But here's the thing: Many hydrangeas don't require regular pruning. Hydrangeas that flower on old wood (Big leaf, Mountain, Oakleaf and Climbing hydrangeas) will do so with little more than the removal of spent flowers and any dead wood in the spring. 

Hydrangeas that flower in new growth (Panicle and Smooth hydrangeas) can be pruned in the spring, just as the new growth begins to appear. 

Why isn't my Hydrangea Blooming?

Proven Winner's has a great little chart with some suggested reasons as to why your hydrangea is failing to flower: Why isn't my Hydrangea Blooming?

A quick look at Cultivars both old and new:

Every year there are new introductions. It's hard to keep track of them all! Here's a quick look at some old classics and newer cultivars.

Patrica & Loren's Garden, Mississauga, Ontario

Larger Shrubs:

Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle' was discovered in the 1960's. It was the first smooth hydrangea with mophead flowers. 'Annabelle' prefers sun in the morning and shade in the afternoon. It is easily grown in average soil garden soil. Annabelle blooms on new wood, so prune it back hard in late winter/early spring. Height: 3-6ft, Spread: 3-6 ft. USDA zones: 3-9. 

'Invincibelle Spirit' was introduced to the market in 2010. I found it took a few years to get established and look like anything special in my garden, but now I find I like its small, delicate looking rose flowers. The flower stems are a little thin for holding up such big flowers, but they don't seem to require any extra support. Blooms appear mid-July and carry on into the fall with the flowers fading in color as they age. 'Invincibelle Spirit' prefers full sun, but will tolerate part shade. It blooms on new wood, so prune in late winter/early spring. Height: 4-5ft inches. Spread: 4-5ft inches. USDA zones: 3-8.

'Limelight' has flowers that emerge celadon green and age into shades of rose and burgundy in the fall. 'Limelight' prefers sun in more northern gardening zones and a little protection from afternoon sun in warmer regions. To prune it, cut back your shrub by one-third its total height in spring.  Part sun to sun. Height: 6-8ft, Spread: 6-8 ft. USDA zones: 3-8.

'Quick Fire' in my garden

'Quick Fire' blooms a bit earlier than most hydrangeas. Mine has been flowering for a few weeks. Already the flowers are shifting from white to a deep fiery rose. With a summer as dry as the one we've experienced, I am glad that it is drought tolerant. This is a big, upright shrub, so set aside a good sized space for it. The only pruning I have had to do so far is to remove the spent flowers in the spring. If you do need to prune a 'Quick Fire', do it in late winter early spring. Part sun to sun. Height: 6-8ft, Spread: 4-6ft. USDA zones: 5-9.

Hydrangea 'Pinky Winky' in the garden of Marion Jarvie

'Pinky Winky' This is a tall, upright shrub with white blooms that turn pink at the base of the flower in the fall. These two-toned flowers can reach up to 16" in length. This hydrangea is drought tolerant and adaptable to a variety of soils. Prune 'Pinky Winky' in late winter or early spring. Part sun to sun. Height: 6-8ft, Spread: 4-6 ft. USDA zones 3-8.

Of all the cultivars of Hydrangea paniculata, Hydrangea 'Phantom' has the largest flower clusters (approximately 15" in size). The flowers emerge pale green in early summer, mature to be white in summer and then turn rose by early fall. This cultivar needs moist, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic (pH 5.6 to 7.5) and full sun. To ensure large flower heads this hydrangea needs to be pruned hard to about 1 foot above ground level in early spring (March or April depending on your zone). Height: 6-10 feet if left unpruned and 4ft if pruned in spring, Spread: 6-10 ft if left unpruned and 4 ft if pruned. USDA zones: 3-8.

Smaller, More Compact Cultivars: 

These have become a huge favourite of mine because they stay relatively small. I find the compact size of these hydrangeas make them very versatile. I start with 'Bobo' which is a brand new introduction that is getting a lot of hype.

'Bobo' forms a low rounded mound of green foliage and has white flowers that turn pink in the fall. Bobo adapts to a variety of soil conditions and requires a moderate amount of moisture. It blooms on new wood, so prune it in late winter or early spring. Part sun to full sun. Height: 30-36 inches. Spread: 36-48 inches. USDA zones: 3-8.

A little size comparison of a Big Leaf hydrangea (foreground) and an Annabelle Hydrangea.

Private Garden, Burlington, Ontario.

Hydrangea Macrophylla 'Blushing Bride' has white semi-double florets that mature to a blush pink or blue depending on your soils pH. The shrub's shape is rounded and growth upright. This hydrangea likes, moist, well-drained soil and part-shade. Height: 3'6", Spread: 3'6". USDA zones: 4-9. 

Hydrangea Macrophylla 'Cityline Vienna' has pink or blue flowers depending on your soil's pH. This hydrangea likes moist, well-drained soil that has been amended with a little peat moss, leaf mold or compost. Pruning is not generally needed, but if you need to do some pruning, do it immediately after it flowers. Height: 1- 3ft, Spread: 2-4 ft. USDA zones: 5-9. (may need winter protection in more northern garden zones.)

'Little Lime' is the little sister of popular 'Limelight'. It has greenish-white flowers (see image on the left) that turn deep rose-green in early fall (see image on the right). It blooms on new wood, so again, prune it in late winter or early spring as needed. Part sun to full sun. Height: 36-60 inches. Spread: 36-60 inches. USDA zones: 3-8.

Companion planting:

What makes a great companion plant for a hydrangea? 

Anything that blooms mid-summer. If your hydrangea is sun/part shade dayliles and ornamental grasses are a nice choice. In the picture below, a blue hydrangea is combined with red and orange daylilies. I have also seen more greenish hydrangea flowers combined nicely with peach and cream daylilies.

Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blue Wave' in the Heritage Garden, Annapolis N.S.

Climbing Hydrangea paired with a range of hosta in Joe's Brampton, Ontario garden.

Astilbe with a hydrangea in behind it.

If your hydrangea is a cultivar that likes more part-shade conditions hosta, phlox, ferns and astible are a few of the many options.

Two different varieties of hydrangeas mixed with hosta and Astilbe.

A picture of my garden in August from a few years back.

Phlox, Rudbeckia Tiger Lilies with a hydrangea standard in the background.

After looking at all this inspiration, I think you'll know why I like hydrangeas as much as I do.

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