A Sneak Peek at Through the Garden Gate 2016: A Garden of Woodland Curiousities

There are always a few grand gardens included in the annual Through the Garden Gate tour. Among the no-expense-spared horticultural marvels on this year's garden tour is a rock garden overlooking an outdoor tennis court which has a heated floor should the homeowners get a hankering to play tennis in the depths of a icy Canadian winter.

The people who own these magnificent homes hire the best landscape designers. These are professionals who know their stuff when it comes to plants and garden design. Their work is often masterful and always inspiring.

But the gardens I always look forward to seeing stand out for more reasons than money spent. They're the gardens filled with charming details and stamped by the homeowners' unique personalities. 

The delightful garden of John and Kathy Chris appealed to the plant geek in me. There is a pergola covered with a very old wisteria and a pond surrounded by a profusion of plants including several clematis, rhododendrons, ferns and a Kousa dogwood. Rare and uncommon woodland plants also line either side of the flagstone pathway.

 Golden Full Moon Maple, Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

"We bought the house in 1977 and have been improving the garden ever since. Our garden is mostly a shade garden, so it lent itself to woodland plants," Kathy tells me, "We learned along the way that native plants do well. We really enjoy native plants, even if they are native to Japan and other countries."

Shooting Star, Dodecatheon meadia is a short-lived perennial that takes a year or so to flower. Typically they put on their best display in year three and then they disappear. Plant it in rich, moist soil. Full sun to part-shade. Height: 20-30 cm ( 8-12 inches), Spread: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches). USDA Zones: 2-9.

Arum italicum has dark green leaves marbled with cream. After it blooms in spring, the foliage goes dormant leaving behind a thick spadix which developes bright, orangey-red berries in summer. New leaves emerge in autumn and the foliage remains evergreen in warmer garden zones. All parts of this plant are toxic. Arum italicum is best grown in moist, humus-rich soil. Part-shade to full shade. Height: 30 cm (12 inches), Spread: 30 cm (12 inches). USDA zones: 5-9.

At first Kathy was the gardener, but over the years, John has gotten more involved.

"We have predominantly acid-loving-plants like azaleas, rhododendrons and woodland plants," says John, "We started mulching the soil when we brought our first rhododendrons twenty years ago. The Grow Bark mulch we use is a combination of three equal parts: two year old composted pine bark, peat moss and pine bark fines."

"Last week we put down 4 yards of it on our garden beds," says Kathy.

Japanese Cobra Lily, Arisaema Sikokianum has a brownish-black hooded flower and two leaves splashed with silver. One leaf has three lobes and the other has five. The dark hood has a pure white lining with a rounded spadix at its centre. This plant will sometimes produce seed heads that will ripen to a bright red-orange in the fall. Arisaema can be slow to sprout in the spring and may not sprout until summer, especially if the tuber is newly planted. This plant likes rich, well-drained somewhat sandy soil.  Water regularly in summer. Part-shade. Height:15- 30 cm (6-12 inches), Spread: 15- 30 cm (6-12 inches). USDA zones 4-9.

There is something quite reptilian about the markings on these next two plants. They look like they belong in some primordial rainforest. 

Podophyllum 'Spotty Dotty' (on the left) is a rare Asian Mayapple hybrid. When they first appear in spring, the umbrella-like leaves are chartreuse with chocolate spots. In summer, the leaves become greener and the spots lighter. Huge garnet-colored flower clusters hang below the leaves. Part-shade to full shade and rich, moist soil. Harmful if eaten. Height: 45 cm (18 inches), Spread: 60 cm ( 24 inches). USDA zones: 5-9.

Umbrella Plant, Syneilesis palmata 'Kikko' (on the right) originates in Japan and is a rare selection of the umbrella plant. It has green foliage laced with cream veins. Semi-tubular flowers are born on tall stems in summer. This plant likes moist, woodland soil and dappled shade. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 30-38 cm (12-15 inches) USDA zones: 4-9.

Paeonia Japonica, which is John's favourite plant.

Primula Sielboldii

Bloodroot, Sanguinaria canadensis has white, daisy-like flowers and deeply scalloped, grey-green leaves. As the flower blooms, the leaves unfurl. The flowers open in the sunlight and close at night. Over time Bloodroot can spread and make large colonies. Bloodroot is best grown in rich, well-drained soil. Part-shade to full shade. Height: 10-15 cm (4-6 inches) Spread: 15-20 cm (6-8 inches) USDA Zones: 3-8.

Blue-eyed Mary or Navel Wort, Omphalodes cappadocica 'Starry Eyes' has sprays of blue, star-shaped flowers that have a pale lilac edge. It is a fast-growing plant that will quickly form a carpet under trees. This perennial likes moist, humus-rich soil. Incorporate leaf-mould, compost or pine needles when planting. Light shade to full shade. Height: 15-30 cm (6-12 inches), Spread: 22-30 cm (9-12 inches). USDA zones: 6-9.

Large Flowering Trillium, Trillium grandiflorum is a wildflower native to Ontario. They have white flowers with three petals which are held aloft on a stem containing a whorl of three leaves. 

Trilliums are spring ephemerals that require patience. They can take up to 7 years to go from seed to flower. As the flowers fade, they turn from white to a soft pink. Trilliums require moist, well-drained, slightly sandy soil that is rich in organic matter. Full to part-shade. Height: 20-50 cm (7-19 inches) USDA Zones: 4-9.

Rue anemone or Wood Anemone, Anemonella thalictroides is native to the eastern part of North America. It has delicate white flowers and pretty green leaves. This plant likes the dappled shade and rich, loamy soil that is slightly moist. They bloom for a period of about six weeks and then the plant goes dormant, especially if the area where it is planted is hot and dry. Height: 30-45 cm (12-18 inches), Spread: 7-15 cm ( 3-6 inches). USDA Zones 5-9.

Gentiana acaulis from the front rock garden.

As with all gardens, there is always a little trial and error. "The first Hepatica Kathy planted took five years to bloom after it was moved several times looking for a place it liked," says John.

When you look up Hepatica transsilvanica 'Buis' you'll find the notation "rare plant". Deep mauve-blue flowers appear first and are followed by the lovely green leaves you see here. They like to be quite damp when they are flowering and producing foliage, but less so in late summer.

Crimson Fans, Mukdenia rossii 'Karasuba'

Yellow Fairy Bells, Disporum flavens is native to Korea. This plant emerges mid-spring with arching stalks of bright green leaves. Lemon yellow flowers will last for up to a couple of weeks. Black berries appear in late summer. Part to full shade and clay soil that is on the moist side is best for this plant. Height: 70-90 cm (27-35 inches) , Spread: 40-50 cm (16-20 inches). USDA Zones: 5-9.

I am going to leave the patio area and a small pond as a surprise for those for you lucky enough to visit John and Kathy's garden on the tour this coming weekend.

More about Through the Garden Gate:

Toronto Botanical Garden's 29th annual Through the Garden Gate is one of Canada's largest private garden tours. This year 18 private gardens in the Kingsway area of Toronto will open their gates to garden-lovers. This self-guided tour enables participants to discover the gardens at their own pace following a map and garden guide containing descriptions of the featured gardens. A complimentary shuttle bus is available for participants to "hop on and hop off" along the route.

Dates: Saturday, June 11th and Sunday, June 12th, 2016

Times: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Tickets:

One-day Pass: Public$45/TBG Members $40

Two-day Pass: Public $ 65/TBG Members $60

Students $25 (with ID, One-day pass only)

HST is included in the ticket price. Tickets are limited and advance purchase is recommended. For more information and to purchase tickets call 416-397-1483. To order them online:click here.

Two Small Back Gardens

The first of the two back gardens in today's post has a cottage feel. Decking, which parodies a wharf, curves its way through the garden. 

A five foot stream cascades over rocks and spills into a large pond filled with goldfish. At night the pond is lit with underwater lights creating a rather magical effect.

The pond is a magnet for little water striders, various types of birds and other wildlife. Even a local mink has taken up residence.

Behind the garage, there is a large deck with a swing and a table for outdoor summer meals. Running along the top of the fence is a cat run.

I don't know if I have ever seen a more elegant looking cat!

The cat run opens into a large enclosure with many perches that are perfect for bird watching.

Nestled in among the Norfolk pines at the back of the garden is a tree house that was built by the homeowner's sixteen year old son.

Wouldn't any pre-teen or teenager just love this fun hideaway?

It's wonderful when a garden invites you inside and this next garden does just that.

In this garden, there is no standing on the lawn and admiring the plantings from a polite distance. Instead pathways lead you into little corners where you can sit within the garden.

Much of the garden is shaded, but there are a few brighter pockets where plants like this tree peony can flourish in dappled sunlight. (Read more about tree peonies here.)

At the back of the house there is a large patio area. A large arbor leads from the patio down to the main part of the garden.

An old iron headboard has been painted black and is hung from the arbor to serve as a unique support for climbing vines like morning glory.

Centred in the garden is a picture-perfect shed. Beyond it, there is a flagstone pathway that leads to a shady corner with yet more seating.

One of the standout plants in this area of the garden is a Bleeding Heart. 

It positively glows in the sunlight!

Bleeding Heart, Dicentra spectabilis, 'Goldheart': This Bleeding Heart has amazing golden foliage and magenta colored  heart-shaped flowers. Height: 60-90 cm, Spread: 60-90 cm. Part or full shade. Average to moist soil. Will go dormant by late summer. Hardy: Zones 2-9.

A garden angel (on the left) and Mountain Bluet, Centaurea montana (on the right).

This is a modest sized backyard, so there isn't a lot of sunny spots for a vegetable garden. Instead the homeowners have opted to mix edible plants, like this rhubarb, in with the other perennials.

The garden shed is both practical and pretty.

If you find that there is a little bit of a lull between tulips and summer perennials in your garden, alliums like these 'Purple Sensation' may be just what you need.

Tools hang in the shelter of the shed's roof.

Have a terrific weekend!

Lilacs: Planting, Care and Pruning

On the weekend, we stopped to pick some white lilacs that were growing wild in an open country field.

The fragrance was heavenly; a mix of clover and honey, with the slightest hint of spice. Even when you crush the woody stems, lilacs in a vase never last long, but that only makes you savour them all the more.

Lilacs in my garden.

That the lilacs were blooming in an old farm field, with not a single gardener in sight to coddle them, speaks volumes to the self-reliance and hardiness of these springtime favourites. They seem to thrive on benign neglect!

The common lilac, Syringa vulgaris is easily grown in full sun in just about any well-drained soil. (The only exception might in the deep south (USDA zones 8-9) were lilacs do not cope well with the heat and humidity.)

Over and above the common mauve lilac, modern cultivars offer double flowers and a range of colors including white, cream, rose, magenta and purple. Heights range from dwarf varieties at 5-8 feet to tall shrubs that can reach as much as 30 feet.

There are a few drawbacks with lilacs that should be mentioned. These are spring stars with no second act. There isn't any showy fruit, nor is there attractive fall foliage color. Lilacs are also really prone to mildew, especially when stressed by drought.

In my garden, old-fashioned mauve lilacs and a couple of modern cultivars bloom mid-May and are pretty much done by the time the dwarf standards begin to flower. The three standards, Syringa meyeri 'Palibin' fill the garden with the most amazing perfume! Nothing in my garden, save for some oriental lilies, is as fragrant. Blooming alongside the standards is a three year old Bloomerang Lilac. The Manchurian Lilac, Syringa pubescens subsp. patula 'Miss Kim' in the front yard is the last to bloom.

My Bloomerang lilac is flowering now.

Interesting to note that the new Bloomerang series of lilacs (from Proven Winners) are repeat bloomers.

'Dark Purple' and 'Purple' have, as their names suggest, purple flowers. 'Scent and Sensibility Pink' and 'Pink Perfume' have repeating rose colored flowers. These new shrubs are dwarf in size making them a good choice for a small garden. As with common lilacs, they need full sun and good drainage.

Here are a few notes on planting, ongoing care and pruning for lilacs:

Planting:

• You can plant lilacs in both the spring and fall, although spring is best. Roots of a lilac bush spread out horizontally, so if you are planting a hedge, space them at least 5 feet apart.

• Choose a location with a least 6 hours of sun. Too much shade and you'll have small leaves and few flowers.

• Lilacs are pretty adaptable to a range of soil types, but humus-rich soil is ideal.
• Soil that will drain freely when rainfall is plentiful is also crucial.
• It's always a challenge to look at a small shrub in a nursery pot and imagine its mature size years down the line, but do your best. Check the plant label to confirm your lilac's mature height and spread.
• Dig a planting hole that is deep and wide enough to accommodate the lilac's root system. Remove the shrub from its nursery pot and insure the top of the root ball is level with the surface of the soil. Back fill and water well.

Ongoing Care:

With the exception of a regular pruning, lilacs are very easy-going.  Use of a fertilizer isn't essential, in fact a lilac that is has been given too much fertilized won't flower. Lilacs can however benefit from an application of a some compost in spring. A top dressing of mulch to help the soil under your shrub retain some moisture and will keep weeds at bay.

General Notes on Pruning:

When it comes to pruning, it is important to remember that most lilacs bloom on old wood.  That means the best time to prune a lilac is right after it finishes flowering. This gives the shrub the remainder to the growing season to develop the buds that will be next spring's flowers

The exception to this rule would be the new Bloomerang Lilacs. They bloom on new growth and should be deadheaded regularly to encourage new blooms.

Light Annual Pruning of a Common Lilac:

• Begin by removing spent blooms and any crossing or dead branches. Cut back any weak branches to a strong shoot.
• Suckers take energy away from the rest of the lilac, and on top of that, they look rather messy. Remove any small suckers growing from the main trunk and leave just a couple of healthy ones that will eventually become replacements for older stems.
• A lilac bush should look full, but not overly bushy. Opening up the centre of a lilac by trimming away a couple of the interior branches will allow more air circulation and help to prevent powdery mildew.

Pruning a Neglected or Mature Shrub:

• Again, begin by removing any the spent flowers. Then prune any crossing or dead branches. Cut back any weak branches to a strong shoot.
• To reinvigorate the shrub, prune a few of the oldest stems right to the ground. Next remove any small or weak suckers at the base of the lilac, but leave a few healthy stalks that will mature to replace the old stems you are removing.

Pruning a Dwarf Lilac:

Dwarf lilacs such as Manchurian Lilac, Syringa pubescens subsp. patula 'Miss Kim' don't require much more than deadheading any spent flowers. Mature shrubs can become leggy over time and may benefit with the removal of a few of the oldest stems every few years.

Pruning a Standard Lilac:

The best time to prune a standard lilac is after it finishes flowering. Prune away faded flowers and then stand back to look at the overall shape of your standard. A lilac standard should not be a tightly clipped ball, but you may want to make a few adjustments to help your standard lilac keep a pleasant, rounded shape.

Pruning a Bloomerang Lilac:

Bloomerang Lilacs bloom on new growth. Cut the stem back to just above the closet pair of side shoots.

Removing spent flowers and doing a light pruning after a these new cultivars flower encourages fresh growth and more blooms. 

Why isn't my lilac blooming? A few suggestions:

If a lilac doesn't get enough sun, it won't bloom well.

Lilacs don't like wet feet and will not bloom if the soil is too moist.

If the flowers on your lilac are small and sparse, it may be a sign that your shrub is overdue for a good pruning. Pruning lilacs improves their health and encourages new flower production.

Propagating lilac bush:

• Fill a small bucket with water and then look for a sucker at the base of a mature lilac's trunk.
Dig down to expose the roots of the shoot. Cut it away from the mother plant making sure to include some of the roots.
• Place the shoot in your bucket of water to prevent it from wilting while you dig the planting hole.
• Plant the lilac sucker in a suitable location and give it a good soak.
• Water the new shoot regularly until it takes hold. Expect to wait 4 to 5 years before you are rewarded with blooms.

Pests and Diseases:

During a hard winter, mice and voles can naw on the bark of a lilac at ground level. Discourage this by keeping mulch and leaf litter away from the base of your shrubs in the fall.

Lilac Borers are a common problem. An adult Lilac Borer is a wasp-like moth with brown forewings and transparent hind wings. The larvae is a white caterpillar with a brown head. Adult borers appear in late summer, mate and lay eggs. Tiny caterpillars hatch, tunnel into main stems and weaken the shrub.
Heavily infested stems should be pruned out. In lightly infested shrubs, borers may be destroyed by probing with a flexible wire.

Greyish-white patches on the foliage of a lilac is a sign of powdery mildew. The good news is that powdery mildew, while somewhat unsightly, does not pose a serious threat to a shrub's health.
Prevention is the best strategy to adopt. Shady conditions and poor air circulation encourages the development of powdery mildew.
When the summer is particularly hot and dry, I find my lilacs are stressed and more susceptible to powdery mildew. If there has been less than a inch of rain in a one week period, give your lilac a good drink.

It just wouldn't be spring without the sweet scent of lilacs!

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