How not to Transplant a Peony

I've worked my shovel in a wide circle around the peony, and the root ball feels as though it has begun to give, so I pry down gently on the shovel. I shift position a few more times and pry down again. There seems to be a gradual upward movement...and then there is a horrible "crrrack". 

Have you ever heard the sound that ice on a frozen lake makes when it shifts and then cracks? This noise was just as ominous!

"That can't be good," I say to myself. This is the third peony I've attempted to move this afternoon, but the others were small and things went well. This last peony, on the other hand, was at least three years old. When I bought it I had no idea where I wanted to place it in the garden, so I had unceremoniously dumped it in my nursery bed. 

Despite the lack of thought, I gave to its placement, the peony thrived and grew into shrub-like proportions. This spring the fragrance of the fluffy white blooms was just lovely. 

I should have moved it last fall, but life somehow got in the way. Now I was paying for the delay. 

The white peony flowers blooming last spring.

When I finally unearthed the full root ball, the extent of the damage was readily apparent. More than a few of the large, carrot-like roots had snapped in two.

"I bet this is why peonies have a reputation for not liking to be moved," I think feeling discouraged. With their deep root system, it's certainly a bit of a struggle to transplant a mature peony without causing some damage.

One of my peonies. Sorry, don't know the specific cultivar.

Fall is the perfect season to be thinking about peonies. It's not only a great time to move them (if you dare), it's also a great time to plant them. 

Why is fall better than spring? 

Peonies bloom early in the gardening season, so planting them in spring may shock them out of flowering that year. The weather in fall is cooler and rain is generally more plentiful minimizing the stress of planting or transplanting them. 

Peonies at the front of our house.

Peonies in my own garden

Peonies in my own garden

A Few Peony Basics:

• Peonies can take a few years to develop and mature, but a gardener's patience is rewarded with a long-lived plant. Some peonies have been known to live for as much as a hundred years!

• Peonies like full sun (a minimum of 6 hrs of sun) and a bit of shelter from the wind. Though they are fairly adaptable, they prefer rich, well-drained soil that has a neutral pH.

• Unlike many other perennials, peonies don't need to be routinely divided.

• Peonies make wonderful cut flowers.

Peony 'Miss America' at the Oshawa Botanical Gardens.

Types of Peonies:

Herbaceous peonies appear in spring and die back to the ground in late fall. Lactiflora is the species parent found in most nurseries. Lactiflora peonies can be recognized by the presence of side buds. Hybrid peonies, which are a cross of two species parents, produce only one bloom per stem.

Itoh or Intersectional peonies are a cross between a herbaceous peony and a tree peony. These peonies have the leaf form of tree peonies on a rounded plant that dies back to the ground in winter.

Tree Peonies are actually a woody shrub that can reach 4-7 feet in height and 4-5 feet wide. They grow slowly and it may take 5-10 years for them to reach their mature size. 

An ideal spot for a tree peony would be a sheltered location. They like morning sun and a little bit of dappled shade during the hottest hours of the day. Find more information on Tree Peonies in this blog post.

A bouquet of my peonies.

How to plant a Bare-root Peony:

Peonies are easy to grow provided you get them off to a good start. Peonies planted in the fall should be in the ground and settled before the first frost (September or October depending on your garden's zone). Healthy peony roots have three to five reddish-green eyes, which are the starting points of next spring's growth. This crown of buds should be no more than two inches below the surface of the soil. If you plant them too deeply, your peony may stubbornly refuse to bloom for several years.

As I've discovered, peonies aren't easy to move, so choose your location carefully. A mature herbaceous peony is like a small shrub ( 2.5' tall by 3' wide is the average), so keep that in mind and give it lots of room to grow.

To plant your peony, dig a hole that is generous enough to accommodate your bare-root plant. Before you backfill the hole enrich sandy or clay soils with some compost and/or a cup of bone meal.

Peony 'Burning Bright' from the Oshawa Botanical Gardens

Peony removed from its pot. 
This is Peony 'Claire de Lune' which is a single cream-colored peony.

How to plant a Potted Peony:

Potted peonies can usually be found at your local nursery for planting in spring and early summer. I have too many peonies as it is, but that didn't stop me from buying this Paeonia 'Claire de Lune' when I saw it last spring. It's a single, cream-colored peony.

Dig a planting hole that is a least twice the size of the pot in width and depth. Place some dirt back in the bottom of the hole. This will allow your peony's roots to grow out into loose soil. Take your peony out of its pot and place it in the planting hole. 

Generally, the top of the soil in the potted plant should be level with the top of the soil in the planting hole. In this case, my "Claire de Lune' peony was sitting high in its nursery pot with some of the root and a few new buds or "eyes" exposed. This crown of buds should actually be two inches below the surface of the soil, so I had to make adjustments when I planted my peony. It is recommended to amend your planting soil with some compost and a handful of bonemeal when you backfill.

Peony 'Firebelle' at the Oshawa Botanical Gardens.

Watering:
Once established peonies are fairly drought tolerant, but during the first growing season, it is important not to let your peony get too dry. When you notice your newly planted peony could use some moisture, water it deeply. Try to avoid getting water on the foliage as it will encourage fungus.

Fertilizing:

Peonies don't need a lot of pampering, but they do benefit from regular applications of fertilizer and a top dressing of mulch.

This fall powdery mildew is a problem on my peonies, which have become 
stressed by the really dry summer.

Pests and Diseases:

If any peony stems collapse or spots appear on the foliage, remove the affected leaves to help stop the spread of the infection. 

Fungal spores can overwinter on old foliage, so a fall cleanup of old peony foliage is a good practice to adopt.

Peonies and Ants:

Ants are attracted to the nectar on peony buds, but they don't harm the flowers. If you are worried about bringing ants into the house along with your cut flowers, you can always pick the flowers just before the buds open (optimum timing: the buds should be showing some color and should be soft when given a gentle squeeze).

When I bring flowers into the house I usually submerge my peonies in a bucket of cold water first and rinse any ants off.

Peonies in a private garden in Caledon, ON (see more of this garden here)

Care in Spring:

Many traditional peonies have big heavy flowers with stems that are too weak to support them. Before the foliage fully emerges in the spring, place a three-legged metal ring into position to help support the flowers that will come later. The foliage will grow up through the ring and should conceal the support.

If you mulch your garden in the spring, do not put mulch over the crown. Mulching around the plant, however, will control weeds and will help the soil retain moisture.

Care in Fall:

In September, cut the foliage to the ground and remove it to prevent the spread of any disease or fungus. Compost the leaves if they are disease-free.

Blossom Hill Nursery

Peony Cultivars: There are so many to choose from!

A couple of years ago I visited Blossom Hill Nursery, which specializes in growing peonies. To get an idea of the range of cultivars available, visit these posts: Blossom Hill Nursery, Part 1, Blossom Hill Nursery, Part 2.

Peonies at the Oshawa Botanical Garden.

Peony 'Bright Knight' at the Oshawa Botanical Garden.

Peonies at the Oshawa Botanical Garden.

Companion Plants:

Peonies are often grown together in the same way that hybrid tea roses are grouped into traditional flowerbeds. Peonies certainly look nice clustered together and after they finish flowering, the foliage continues to hold up fairly well through the rest of the growing season. There is only one drawback to this type of planting scheme: peonies bloom for such a brief period of time and then you are left with a rather nondescript expanse of green for the rest of the summer.

I much prefer it when peonies are mixed in with other perennials. Here are just a few ideas to get you inspired:

Peonies + Catmint, Nepeta at the Toronto Botanical Garden

Peonies + Catmint, Nepeta at the Toronto Botanical Garden.

Blue star, Amsonia 'Blue Ice' looks terrific sitting in front of white or pink peonies.

Peonies + perennial Salvia at the Toronto Botanical Garden.

Peony 'Sarah Bernhardt' + purple Alliums at the Toronto Botanical Garden.

Peonies and roses from my garden.

Unfortunately, it takes at least a growing season for the white peony I transplanted to recover, but I feel confident that it will eventually flower again. Peonies may have soft, pretty flowers, but they are very tough resilient perennials.

A Visit to Blossom Hill Nursery

Bartzella

It is not hard to guess where Blossom Hill Nursery got its name. 

From a vantage point in many of the fields of peonies there is a rather spectacular view of the rolling countryside just outside of the city of Peterborough, Ontario. 

The week before last, hubby had a few days of vacation and we had decided to do a little summer road trip to the Peterborough area.  He had scoped out a few antique shops and I added a stop at Blossom Hill Nursery to list of places we hoped to visit.  

Blossom Hill is a nursery that specializes in growing peonies and delphiniums. They have over 600 varieties of peonies including species, tree, herbaceous and Itoh (Intersectional) peonies.

Now, I know what some of you must be wondering: what would someone who already has a good number of peonies ever be wanting with more? 

Beautiful though they are, most of my peonies are 3 or 4 varieties only. I have no singles, no white, yellow or red peonies for instance. In the near future, I would like to add a bit more diversity and maybe even extend the short season for peonies with both early and late blooming varieties.

When we finally arrived at the nursery it was rather late in the day. Dinner hour in fact. Joe and Hazel Cook could easily have said "we're closed", but instead they kindly allowed me to wander around and take pictures to my heart's content.

I thought I had died and had gone to peony heaven!

As well as the fields of the peonies and delphiniums they grow, 

the nursery also a number of display gardens.

Columbine, Aquilegia 'Nora Barlow'

Why shop in person? 

Well, there is nothing like seeing a flower in the flesh to give you a true appreciation of its shape, color, fragrance and growing habits. 

Here are just a few of the pink varieties that caught my eye:

Jay Hawker: Lactiflora Double Light Pink. Stiff stems. Moderate Fragrance. Mid-Season.

Mons. Jules Elie: Double rose-pink. Large guard petals with a well defined centre. Mid-season.

Irene May Gilbert

Faith Fenton

Top left: Souv. L. Bigot Top right: Raspberry Sundae 

Bottom left: Garden Lace Bottom right: Show Girl

First Arrival: This peony had one of the largest flowers I saw growing in the fields. It was huge! Intersectional, semi-double lavender pink flower on a compact dark green plant. Mid-season. Be fore-warned this one's expensive.

Above and below: Clown: Single bright pink surrounding yellow stamens. Fragrant. Mid-season.

Lady Alexandra Duff: A double blush pink with light petals in the centre. 

Slightly fragrant. Mid-Season.

In an upcoming post, I will show you some of the yellow, white and red varieties of peonies.

More Information and Links:

Tips on Growing Peonies:  Peonies are long lived perennials and so it is worth the effort to prepare the site well before you plant. Peonies prefer a sunny, well-drained site. Dig a hole larger than the root and amend the soil with compost or bonemeal.  The crown buds of herbaceous peonies should be no more than 2 inches below the surface of the soil. If planted too deep, they may not flower for several years. If you mulch your garden, do not put mulch over the crown. In September, cut the foliage off and remove it from the garden to prevent the spreading of any disease or fungus.  (Excerpted From Blossom Hill Nursery website) 

Blossom Hill Nursery specializes in delphiniums and peonies and is located near Peterborough in Ontario.  

They have over 600 varieties of peonies including species, tree, herbaceous and Itoh (Intersectional) peonies. Visitors are welcome at the nursery to view the perennial beds and gardens. Business hours are by appointment or chance. 

They ship to both Canadian and USA destinations. Link to Herbaceous Peony Pictures. Link to Itoh and Tree Peony Pictures. View the online catalogue.

Tree Peonies

What is it that focuses your attention on the gentle curves of a white flower? Is it the lack of colour that accentuates the shape and the translucence of a white petal? Whatever the reason, there is something magical about the soft lines of a white peony in flower. 

Years ago I saw the most exquisite white Tree Peony at the Royal Botanical Garden in Hamilton and I promised myself that, if I ever saw a similar peony for sale, I would buy it on the spot. 

By chance, I finally came across a single white Tree Peony last week. Fall is actually the best time to buy and plant any type of peony, but I was so taken with this beauty, I decided to overlook the season and the considerable expense (almost $50), and purchase it.

Fresh growth on my Tree Peony is carried on stems that are a soft magenta color.

Newly emerging green foliage is edged with a deep rose colour.

I have lots of experience growing herbaceous peonies, but none with Tree Peonies. Some research was therefore in order. I gave my peony a drink and left it on a garden bench in the sun, while I went inside to look up some basic facts.

I grabbed a coffee and sat down to read the plant tag as the first order of business. The first words on the label were a warning:

Before you plant

If you don't have a chance to plant your peony immediately after you purchase it, make sure it is in a lightly shaded spot out of the sun's direct rays while it waits to find a home in your garden. Don't allow it to dry out. Keep the soil in the pot moist.

Oops! I ran out to rescue my peony from the sunny bench where I had left it.

Tree Peonies are actually a woody shrub. 

They come in colours beyond white: pink, red, coral, purple, yellow and blends of different colours. Tree Peonies grow slowly. It may take 5-10 years for them to reach their mature size.

Choosing a Site

Peonies of all types dislike being moved. Choosing the right spot for my new peony, therefore, required some careful consideration. Too much sun and the flower petals might fade. Too much shade and the peony would have weak, slow growth. Peonies also like some protection from the wind. 

And on top of all that, you need to keep in mind that a Tree Peony will require lots of room to grow. They can reach 4-7 feet in height and 4-5 feet wide! An ideal spot would be a sheltered location with morning sun and a little bit of dappled shade during the hottest hours of the day. 

Hmm....in what area of my garden was there morning sun and light afternoon shade?

When best to plant a Tree Peony

The best time to plant any type of Peony is in the fall, but nurseries, like the one where I bought mine, often sell them in the spring.

Planting Preparations

Planting depths vary depending on the root type. Grafted tree peonies should be planted so that the graft is four to six inches below the soil. Tree peonies grown on their own roots should be planted so that the point at which the stems emerge from the root is 2" below the surface of the soil. Tree Peonies in a pot, like the one I bought, should be planted so that the soil in the planting hole is level with the soil in the pot. 

Planting a Potted Tree Peony:

Tree Peonies tolerate a variety of soil conditions but prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil with good drainage. You should dig a planting hole that is a least twice the size of the pot in width and depth. Place some dirt back in the bottom of the hole. This will allow your peony's roots to grow out into loose soil. Take your peony out of its pot and place it in the planting hole. It is recommended to amend your planting soil with some compost and a handful of bone meal. Backfill level to the pot's soil. Mulch the plant to help keep down weeds and to allow your peony to retain moisture. Water well.

Watering

Once established Peonies are pretty drought tolerant, but during the first growing season, it is important not to let your peony get too dry. When you notice your new Tree Peony could use some moisture, water it deeply. Try to avoid getting water on the foliage as it will encourage fungus.

Ongoing Maintenance

You can expect your Tree Peony to take 2 or even 3 years to settle in and bloom profusely. Remember these woody shrubs may take as long as 5 to 10 years to reach their full size. If this seems like a long time to wait, take comfort in the fact that peonies can live for 100 years or more. 

Transplanting:

Try to avoid moving a peony as the plant will grow slowly while the roots re-establish themselves. If you must move a Tree Peony, move it in the fall. 

Begin at least 18" from the base of your peony, and work in a circle, loosening the soil with a large garden fork. Lift and secure the root ball with a piece of burlap. Cut off any remaining leaves, being careful not to cut any of the woody stems which will be responsible for next year's flowers. Move the peony to its new location, remove the burlap and replant your peony. Water well. 

Unfortunately, it may several years for the peony to recover.

Fertilizing

Peonies don't need to be coddled, but they do benefit from regular applications of fertilizer and a top dressing of mulch. Mulch not only also serves to retain soil moisture, it helps to protect your peony through the winter.

In doing my research, I found recommendations that beginning in early spring of a peony's second year, it is a good idea to apply a fertilizer high in potash to encourage flowers to develop. A second and third application of a complete or organic fertilizer should be added after your peony finishes blooming and in mid to late fall. I think I will adopt this routine for all my peonies.

Pruning

Prune a Tree Peony in early spring just as the buds are swelling. Begin by removing any dead wood. Prune back to a live bud or just above ground level. Here is a handy link to a video on pruning a Tree Peony:

Pests and Diseases

Good news! Deer and rabbits won't nibble on a Tree Peony. The only problem you might encounter is peony wilt or Botrytis, which appears in early spring just before Tree Peonies flower. If any stems collapse or spots appear on the leaves, remove them to help stop the spread of the infection. Fungal spores can overwinter on old foliage, so a fall cleanup of all old peony foliage is an important practice to adopt.

If I pick the right site and take good care of it, my Tree Peony should well outlive me.  And I should be able to look forward to years and years of beautiful white flowers.

Bookmark this post with a PIN.