Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Building a Cold Frame


The month of October was swallowed whole by family matters. First my father-in-law passed away and then seventeen days later my mother-in-law slipped quietly away in her sleep. They were always good to me... to us all and I find myself tearing up just typing these words.

For me, one of the ways grief expressed itself was a terrible tiredness that made me want to avoid anything routine; including the computer, the internet and blogging. It has been weeks since I posted anything. 

Slowly, slowly I am slipping back into the comfort of old familiar habits. Now I find myself looking forward to catching up with good friends.


Wow! I can't believe it is already mid-November and fall is almost over!

The big Maple at the back of the garden always seems to be fall's swan song. It is the last tree in the yard to turn color and finishes the season with a crescendo of most brilliant yellow. 



Then there is frost and the Maple leaves fall like rain.



Last week hubby took some time off and we busied ourselves with completing a number of ongoing projects including this cold frame.

I first became interested in cold frames a couple of years ago. 

I was amazed and inspired to see how gardeners like Brenda (Gardeningbren in Nova Scotia) managed to extend the gardening season with the use of a cold frame.

Niki Jabbour, The Year Round Veggie Gardener

Niki Jabbour's blog The Year Round Veggie Gardener was also a real eye opener. 

Who wouldn't be impressed by that picture of Niki kneeling beside a cold frame in the dead of a Canadian winter?


Needless to say, when her book The Year Round Vegetable Gardener was published, I bought a copy.


Last fall hubby and I came up with a design to transform one of my raised beds into a cold frame. 

If I had a bigger garden, I probably would have built a permanent cold frame, but space in our backyard is at a premium and so I wanted to design a structure that could be a cold frame in winter and revert back to an ordinary flowerbed in summer. 


Here you can sort-of see the four raised beds last spring. (Oh how I now wish I had taken better pictures of this part of the garden last spring!) 

Overall my garden is a bit of a jungle, so I like the little bit of order and formality that the raised beds provide. 

There are lilac standards in the centre of two of the flowerbeds diagonally opposite from one another and...


decorative plant supports in the centre of the opposite pair. 

Hopefully next spring clematis will be clamouring up the plant supports and covering them with flowers about the same time that the lilac standards are in bloom. Fingers crossed anyway!


One raised bed holds my collection of herbs (as seen above). In another, I grew tomatoes and strawberries last summer. In the final two beds, I planted a mix of flowers.


Here we are in November.

Last year we constructed the sides of the box which transforms the one of these raised beds into a cold frame. Being busy, we ran out of fall before we could make the top. To get us through the last winter we ended up borrowing a few old windows from a neighbour. 

Last week, we finally completed the project and made the top doors.

The smart part of this cold frame design is that it takes less than an hour to transform the raised bed into a cold frame. You simply fit the cold frame sides into position and attach the three doors. (We store the component pieces in a shed during the summer.)


For purposes of demonstration, here we have detached one of the cold frame sides to show you how it all fits into place. In the shot above you can hubby fitting one of the sides into position to complete walls of the frame.

Because the sides fit together like a puzzle no nails are required to hold them in position. Any one of the side walls can be removed in a matter of minutes.


The final stage of the fall transformation from raised bed to cold frame involves the installation of three plexiglass doors.


It remains to be asked: why go to all this bother? I can think of so many good reasons:

A cold frame is certainly more affordable than a buying a full greenhouse, yet offers many of the same advantages. 

It also takes up a lot less space than a greenhouse and is the great option to consider for a small backyard.


As I indicated earlier in the post, a cold frames allow you to extend the growing season in a number of ways. 

My herbs are still going strong despite the fact that it's mid-November and we have had several killing frosts. And last spring the herbs sprouting new growth over a month ahead of the rest of the garden.

You can also grow a winter crop of vegetables in a cold frame (visit Niki or Brenda's blog for inspiration). 


Like a greenhouse, I found a cold frame to be a great place to start seeds. 

I have limited space in the house for seedlings. Last spring I was able to start some seeds inside the cold frame as early as late March/early April.

Rose Mossy Saxifrage, saxifraga x arendsii rose selection

I also found that the cold frame is a great place to park tender plants for the winter.  Thanks to the shelter it provides, the top of this birdbath planter came through the ravages of a Canadian winter beautifully.

Sometimes I have trouble over wintering Mediterranean herbs like thyme, but last year I had no problem with the most of the plants inside of the cold frame. (The exception were a few thyme plants that were right in the corners. There are some very small gaps where the structure fits together and they were big enough to allow cold drafts to sneak inside and affect the plants right in each corner.)


With under an hour to make the transformation, I have to say that I am rather proud of how easy we have made it to use a cold frame each fall and winter.

For more project details please see the Cold Frame How-to.

Cold Frame How-to


Here is the plan drawing that we used for the four raised beds:


The basic raised bed is 7' x 4' and is constructed using 2 x 12 cedar boards with 4 x 4 cedar post in each corner (Note: Cedar is one of the best choices for wood that will be in contact with soil).

Pine sides fit into position like a jigsaw puzzle to transform the raised bed into a cold frame each fall. (Note: The cold frame box does not touch the soil and so we opted to build it with less expensive pine.)

Here you can see a photo showing all the sides in position without the obstructed view with the top in place: 


Because the sides fit together like a puzzle no nails are required to hold them in position. Any one of the side walls can be removed in a matter of minutes.



The final stage of the fall transformation from raised bed to cold frame 
involves the installation of three plexiglass doors.


1. Here you see the first completed cold frame door in position. We opted to use plexiglass for the doors rather than glass because it is not as breakable. Also for amateurs like us, plexiglass was a lot easier to work with! 

We were able to get readymade plexiglass panels (30" x 60") at the Home Depot which were almost the perfect size. We just had to shorten each plexiglass panel by 6 inches.


The door frames were made using four pieces of 1 x 2 Pine. To construct the door frames cut 2 x 54" lengths and 3 x 26.5" pieces (the competed door width will be 30").


2. The construction of the doors is very basic. Simply screw L-brackets into place at each corner of the door. The window's centre support bar is held in position with a metal T-bracket at each end. Then finishing nails are added at each corner for extra stability.

We designed the plexiglass panels to sit on top of each door frame rather than being inset (as in a standard window frame). We wanted any rainfall or snow to be able to slide cleanly off the surface of each door.


Now place your plexiglass panel on top of the frame and clamp it into position. You need to cut off the extra 6" overhang. Using a T-square and an Exacto knife score the plexiglass along the outside edge of the frame. Hubby carefully scored the line 6 times to ensure a good clean cut. 

4. Grab a scrap of wood and place it along the inside of your scored edge. Now press down on the overhang and it should snap cleanly free.


5. Attach the plexiglass to the frame with 3/4" #8 Robertson screws (3/4" Phillips will work just as well). We placed a screw approximately every 6.5".


 Just a couple more steps!

6. Now attach a handle to the centre front of each door. We used an inexpensive 5 3/4" handle.

7. On the back on the cold frame attach each door with two 3.5" T-hinges approximately 6" in from the sides of each door. These T-hinges are the one semi-permanent part of the cold frame that will have to be removed to dismantle the cold frame each spring.



Condensation on the inside of the plexiglass doors provides plants with moisture. 

The cold frame is not heated of course, and so during the winter it will get cold in there, but the enclosed structure will always be much warmer than the surrounding environment.

And the Winner Is...


I am sorry about the long delay in announcing a winner for the Fine Foliage book draw.

The book's publisher St. Lynn's Press has graciously given me a review copy for this giveaway. To assist me with the draw I recruited my son Daniel (that's his handsome hand in the next photo).

And the winner is....



Alana whose blog is named All is Amazing.  Congratulations Alana!

Alana, I will be in touch with you shortly to get your mailing address. I am sure you are going to find lots of great inspiration in for next spring in the pages of Fine Foliage.

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Notes on Preparing the Garden for Winter, Part 2: Taking Cuttings


From Marion's Collection of Fuchsia

We are nearing the end of October and the days of working comfortably outdoors are numbered.

We have had a few lovely, sun-shiny days of late, but after a few hours in the garden the damp cold sneaks inside your shoes and numbs the tips of your fingers. Thankfully the warmth of the kitchen and a mug of steaming hot coffee are an easy remedy for getting chilled outdoors.

There is still lots to do: end-of-season bulbs bought at a discount yet to plant, leaves to rake and last minute projects to wrap up and complete.

As well as the usual chores, I have been experimenting with new ways to keep non-hardy plants going.


The Entrance to Marion Jarvie's Garden

A good part of the inspiration for these experiments comes from watching the video series with Carol Klein at work in her garden and Marion Jarvie's class on preparing the garden for winter.

Marion's collection of container plants

On the flag stone patio at the back her house, Marion has a pair of decorative urns and 
a very nice collection of plants in pots.

Marion's collection of container plants

Some pots contain annuals, but the majority are plants that spend the summer months vacationing on the patio and the winter months indoors or in the greenhouse that she has at the side of her home.


Marion's collection of container plants

Marion's fuchsias above and below


Fuchsia plants are not at all hardy here. In the past I have always bought new plants each spring, but this can get expensive. 

I was inspired to learn that Marion keeps her fuchsia plants going by taking cuttings and storing a few of her favourites in her greenhouse. 

Now I don't have a greenhouse, but I am able to take cuttings.


As well as taking cuttings from my fuchsias, I have also been experimenting with rosemary and coleus. 

I have learned that is best to take cuttings in the morning when the mother plant has the most moisture. When working with rosemary, I snipped off two inch segments from the tips of each of the plants in my herb garden and placed them in a glass of water while I continued to work. 

Then I took each cutting and removed all the leaves on the lower half of each shoot. 

At this point you can dip the end of each cutting in rooting hormone to help the cutting to root faster, but I skipped this step, and simply inserted each of my cuttings directly into moist potting soil (In each of my pots I used potting soil overtop an inch or so of fine gravel). 


Now I know I have hopelessly crowded the cuttings into a single pot, but in a month or two when the cuttings have rooted, I will repot them as needed. 

I put the potted cuttings in a bright window (avoid direct sun) and have been keeping an eye on them to insure the soil does not dry out. 

So far so good. 


The coleus cuttings which I did about a month ago seem to be showing fresh signs of growth. 

Fingers crossed I will have good sized plants come spring and will saved myself the expense of buying new ones.

Monday, October 21, 2013

Fine Foliage: Review and Giveaway

Book cover image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Fine Foliage St. Lynn's Press 2012-13

Before I talk about the book Fine Foliage, I want to introduce you to Karen Chapman, a good blogging friend, and one of the book's two authors, by way of her garden. 

Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 

Karen sometimes jokes that, when she and her husband bought their modest one storey house on 5 acres of land, the landscape's best feature was a dead tree.

That was back in 2009.

Since that time, they have moved a small cedar cabin on the property, built an arbor, built a fenced vegetable garden and created a beautiful island-shaped flowerbed around the cabin.


Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 

Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 
In this closeup, there is a spirea at the very bottom of the picture, orange flowering croscosmia just above it, a paperbark maple on the right, a burgundy colored Barberry in the middle-distance and Feather Reed Grass in the near distance. You can read more about the planting details in this post.

Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 

When Karen began working on this section of the garden, it was a mosquito infested swamp! 

The addition of a stream bed in 2010 gave ground water a way to flow away from the area. Wild grasses and weeds were covered over by layering sheets of cardboard and then a fresh layer Moo-doo was added on top (read all about this interesting process by clicking the link.)

Here is the how the same area looked three years later  in April 2013:

Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 

Photo by Karen Chapman © Le Jardinet 2013 

What an amazing transformation, eh? 

You can read more about the garden make-over process and about some of the planting details in this post.


Now, on to the book Fine Foliage that Karen wrote with friend and kindred spirit Christina Salwitz

I think you will find that Fine Foliage is a great little resource book you can dip into quickly and come away feeling inspired.

Though the book offers a designer's perspective on using foliage color, shape and texture to create beautiful planting combinations, the ideas are presented in a very user-friendly way.

Page spread image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz 2013

Image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz 2013

 On one side of a page spread, you have a bit of inspiration that is beautifully photographed.

Page image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz 2013 

On the other side you have everything you need to know about the planting combination clearly spelled out for you: sun or shade, season, soil, and zone. 

Karen and Christina also tell you why the combination works and introduce you to each of the plants involved. 

Image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz 2013 

The book is conveniently divided into two sections: Sun and Shade. (The image above is one of the nice shade container plantings from the book.)

As well as container plantings, the book also addresses foliage in the garden proper with pretty plant combinations like these ones:

Page spread image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz  2013 

Image courtesy of Fine Foliage © Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz 2013 

I think you will find that Fine Foliage is a terrific book that can make getting to "beautiful" as easy as following a simple recipe. Providing an easy roadmap to success helps to build confidence and both authors hope that readers will end up using the book as a springboard to begin to create their own unique foliage combinations.  

And at under twenty dollars, Fine Foliage is a bargain!


If you would like to be included a draw for the copy of  Fine Foliage, please leave a comment below. I am going to leave the contest open for a full week. Overseas bloggers are welcome to enter. The draw and winning announcement will be made in an upcoming post.

Many thanks to St. Lynn's Press for providing a copy book for this giveaway (I purchased my own copy of the book for the purpose of this review).


Good luck everyone!

To read more reviews of great gardening books, be sure to click this link to Holley's blog: Roses and other Gardening Joys.


More Information and Links:

Author, Karen Chapman:"I am a container and landscape designer, serious plant-aholic, garden writer and public speaker for all things gardening. In other words, I'm ususally covered in a layer or two of soil...I am truly passionate about sharing the joys of gardening." Visit Karen's website and blog here: Le Jardinet
Author, Christina Salwitz: "I am a container designer, garden coach, garden writer, speaker and foliage-aholic who loves to teach and see the light bulb go on when a gardener suddenly "gets it". I adore the entire horticultural industry and revel in helping others feel the same passion that I do about plants". Visit Christina's blog here: The Garden Coach.
"Fine foliage is a visual treat that will inspire you with dazzling combinations for containers and gardens. Karen Chapman and Christina Salwitz explain why each combination works- bringing artistic design within easy reach of all gardeners. A great user-friendly resource." - Debra Prinzing, author of The 50 Mile Bouquet
Book Title: Fine Foliage, Elegant Plant Combinations for Garden and Container
Pages: 140
Publisher: St. Lynn's Press
Price on Amazon: Under $15