Japanese Maples

Much of what I know about Japanese Maples comes from simple observation. 

They are relatively slow growing. The little green leafed one I bought five years ago is practically the same size it was when I bought it!

 My own little Japanese Maple

Japanese Maples turn the most fantastic colors each fall. Add in a little sunlight and 

you have pure magic!

Looking over the fence to my neighbour's Japanese Maple.

Chen's garden in Milton, ON

It doesn't take much keen observation to note that Japanese Maples have a 

dramatic presence in any garden.

Chen's garden

Tell me that this area of Chen's garden in Milton, ON would as pleasing if it weren't for the

 large red Japanese Maple you see in the foreground!

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

And it's not just the color of their leaves. The branches of a Japanese Maple sweep 

upward, outward or cascade downward with such grace.

Private garden in Dartmouth, N.S.

Even in winter, there is a certain beauty in their bare limbs.

Private Garden, Mississauga, ON

Their overall shape can be quite elegant...

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

or gnarly and sculptural.

Private garden in Toronto, ON

It seems that less is more when it comes to Japanese Maples. Just one is often enough. 

Private garden, Toronto, ON. In the foreground is Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

There are also pretty versatile. They are small sized trees that that can work in almost sized garden; even a modest one. (The majority of Japanese Maples grow to 6-15 feet in height, with some reaching as high as 30 feet. True dwarf Japanese Maples can grow as little as 3ft.) 

Acer shirasawanum 'Aureum'

Japanese Maples do however, have a few drawbacks. They can be really pricy. 

Demand seems to have brought the price down on a few common cultivars (Locally you pick up a small Japanese Maple for as little as $25 at Loblaws Garden Centres each spring).  

But anything more unusual is likely to cost you are pretty penny.

Acer campestre 'Carnival' in a private garden in Toronto, ON

And more interesting options like this Acer campestre 'Carnival' (above) are not always readily available. Often you need to track them down at speciality nurseries.

Acer campestre 'Carnival': The foliage of  'Carnival' emerges with pink and cream and gradually becomes green with white margins. 'Carnival' has a spreading habit and is slow growing (8 feet in 10 yrs) It needs a sheltered spot and is best suited to shade. 'Carnival' likes evenly moist, well-drained soil. USDA Zones 4a-8b.

Acer palmatum 'Koto No Ito' in Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

Possibly the best way to find a particular Japanese Maple is to search for it online.

Acer palmatum 'Koto No Ito': 'Koto No Ito' means harp strings. This cultivar is also known as the Dancing Monkey Tree because of the way its leaves dance in the wind. 'Koto No Ito' turns a lovely yellow with a hint of orange in fall. Mature size:10 year size is 5 to 6 ft. Width is 3-5 ft. USDA Zones 6a-9b.

I happened upon these four Japanese Maples while poking around in a local nursery called Lost Horizons. Unfortunately for me, they are guaranteed hardy only to Zone 5. 

They are starting in the top left:

1. Acer palmatum 'Butterfly': A variegated cultivar with bluish-green leaves edged with white.

2. Acer palmatum dissectum 'Seiryu': Lacy green foiage that is red tipped.

3. Acer palmatum 'Grandma Ghost': Cream and pale green leaves with pink veins (this image shows its fall colors).

4. Acer palmatum 'Beni otake': A vigorous upright tree with a bamboo silhouette. It has large purple-red leaves and strap-like leaf lobes.

A Japanese Maple in the Lost Horizons Nursery Display Garden

Linking my last two points: Japanese Maples are an investment, so you will want to take note of the hardiness of the maple you are considering buying before you make your purchase. 

In northern climate zones like mine (6b), you will also want to make sure your maple is sited in a protected location. Even the more hardy varieties of Japanese Maples will often suffer winter damage here or perish mysteriously. I had one little red Japanese Maple for a number of years, and then one winter, it up and died.

Acer palmatum dissectum 'Viridis'

Here are some general notes on growing Japanese Maples that I have gathered from a variety of sources:

Japanese Maples are categorized according to leaf type. There are two main groups of Japanese Maples. Probably the most familiar Japanese Maple is Acer palmatum, with its cascading branches of finally cut leaves in 5 to 9 parts. A second group is Acer Japonicum, with leaves that have 7-11 fingerlike parts.  There is also a third group of trees: Acer shirasawanum.

Toronto Botanical Gardens, Toronto, ON

Site selection: It's hard to imagine, but try to consider a Japanese Maples's mature size when you site them. Select a sheltered spot where your tree will not be buffeted by strong winds.

Sandy loam with some organic matter is ideal, but Japanese Maples will tolerate a wide range of soils. A soil with too much organic matter however, can actually affect the desired coloration of the leaves. 

In terms of light requirements, a general rule is to choose a sunny spot with afternoon shade. Leaf color can also serve as a useful guide to help you determine just how much sun is appropriate for your Japanese Maple. (Note: The amount of light will affect your maple's leaf color.) Red and variegated leaves need a respite from the hot afternoon sun. Green varieties tolerate sun best, but still can be scorched by too much sun. Golden leaves need a bit of sun to keep their color from turning green.

Japanese Maple in Chen's garden near Milton, ON

Planting: The best time to plant a Japanese Maple is in early spring and in the fall, when the tree's roots have to best chance to get established. (Note to self: Avoid clearance sales mid-summer, when any new tree will have to struggle with heat and possible drought. It's a case of false economy!)

To plant your new maple, dig a hole bigger than the root ball and back fill with 1 part peat moss to 3 parts soil. Water it well and mulch the area to keep the roots cool and ensure water retention. Use only moderate amounts of fertilizer such as a transplanter with a ratio of 5-15-5.

Care: Japanese Maples like moderate moisture and good drainage. Extreme drought can affect foliage color of red maples in particular. Once established, it is a good idea to apply a light fertilizer in early spring (4-12-8 fertilizer or 15-30-15 water soluable mixture both work). 

Japanese Maple in Chen's garden near Milton, ON

Pruning: Any major pruning should be done before the leaves unfurl and the tree is dormant. Never prune in spring when the sap is rising. Lighter pruning can be done in June afer the first major flush of growth takes place. Ensure your pruners are razor sharp for a good clean cut. Begin by pruning away any dead ot diseased branches. It is also a good idea to cut away any scrubby growth or twigs that cross. After that, it comes down to aesthetics. Stand back from your tree and consider every cut carefully. Never use wound dressings or black sealing paint, as they lock disease in rather than keeping it out.

Diseases: Aphids, leaf-cutters and rollers may appear as pests in spring. If that happens, seek an organic control at your local nursery. Mildew can be a problem where there is high humidity.

Marion Jarvie's garden in Thornhill, ON

Winter protection: Japanese Maples do best in USDA zones 6-8. They love the moderate climate of pacific northwest. In hotter areas, they will require aftternoon shade and frequent water. It is interesting to note that the Korean Maple, Acer pseudosieboldianum is a full zone more cold hardy than the most common Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum.

 It is recommended that you wrap any new Japanese Maple in burlap for the first three years in a garden. Keeping it watered before the first frost will help guard against water loss in winter. An extra heavy layer of mulch will also help portect the root system during the cold winter months.

Please share your own experience with growing Japanese Maples.

Garden Canadensis, Part 2: Planting Combinations for Shade

Throughout the garden, and especially along its outer perimeter, mature trees cast pockets of the Chen and Linda's magnificent garden called 'Garden Canadensis' into shade and part shade. 

What I think will surprise and delight you is just how vibrant shady areas in a garden can be.

Here then are some of the many wonderful plant parings from Garden Canadensis for shade/part shade, with a brief explanation of why each combination works, as well as a bit of information on a key perennial in each grouping.

Plant combination: Dicentra 'Stuart Boothman' and Hosta 'Dancing in the Rain' 

What's nice about this mix is the combination of fern-like foliage and the large, broad leaves of the hosta.

Chen writes: 

"I like all Dicentras, the fern-like leaves and the dainty flowers, and would like to have all varieties if I can, eventually. Ideally, I try to plant them in the shade of some trees with enough sunlight for decent blooms, but not so much that their leaves deteriorate too quickly into summer."

See more of Chen's collection of Dicentra including:

Dicentra 'Stuart Boothman' which is pictured above and has pale pink flowers and greyish foliage.

Dicentra 'Aurora' A good reliable creamy white dwarf Dicentra.

Dicenta 'Bleeding Hearts' Chen writes, "This is probably the most showy Dicentra, although it is not vigorous in my garden. I have lost 2 trials mostly because of vole problems."

Plant Combination: Brunnera 'Jack Frost' (left) with Heuchera 'Silver Scroll' (in the foreground) and Hosta 'Fire and Ice' (in the upper right).

What's nice about this combination: Both the Brunnera and the Heuchera have silver foliage, but they couldn't be more different or more complimentary. The cream of the hosta's foliage adds that all important element of contrast.

Plant Combination: On the right is Pulmonaria longifolia 'Diana Clare' and to the bottom left is a deciduous rhododendron: Rhododendron schlippenbach which the "rabbits like to chew on". Above them is a hosta with a lots of cream trough the centre of its dark green foliage.

What's nice about this combination: I would particularly like to draw to your attention to the silvered-grey-green Pulmonaria. Chen notes that:

"The quiet beauty of Pulmonarias is indispensable for the shady parts of my garden. The flowers may be early and brief, but their foliage is highly ornamental from early spring into late fall. In mid-summer they typically go through a decline, but this can easily be taken care of by removing their foliage. New foliage will emerge, and be ready, as the weather is cooling off.

They appear to self-sow readily (but not wildly) in my garden. This presents a problem for keeping the named cultivars intact after a few years. I suspect that many Pulmonarias on the market are just derivative seedlings of some kind. For the same reason, many name cultivars are not that distinct from each other."

Just a few of Chen's Pulmonarias that caught my eye are :

Pulmonaria 'Diane Clare' shown above has pale blue flowers:"Its foliage is highly ornamental for the whole season. It is a very vigorous Pulmonaria."

Pulmonaria 'Opal' which has white flowers. Chen describes this variety as a "must have".

Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash' which is a vigourous plant with showy red flowers and is "one of the best Pulmonarias".

Plant Combination: Chen tells me that the neat green mound at the front of this planting is Buxus microphylla 'Kingsville'. It is "probably the most dwarf form of boxwood, and is popular to use in bonsai."

The large golden Heuchera in the centre of the picture is Heuchera 'Carmel'. In front of 'Carmel' is what Chen describes as a"very weak, but pretty" Heuchera 'Autumn Leaves' (with reddish foliage). 

In the lower left corner is Heuchera 'Christa'. Behind 'Caramel' and to the right with the purplish-green foliage is Heuchera 'Petite Pearl Fairy'. Peaking out from behind it is the green foliage of Heuchera 'Silver Scroll'.

What is interesting about this planting is how multi-colored it is despite the shade conditions and minimal flowers.

Planting Combination: On the top left is Hosta 'Sagae'. Below it is lime colored Hosta ' Blaze of Glory'. 

With tiny white flowers in the centre is Corydallis ochroleuca. Peaking out from the lower right is Heuchera 'Delta Dawn'. Bending over the whole group is a Japanese Maple Acer palmatum 'Peaches and Cream'.

It may be primarily one color: green, but what makes this combination work is contrast. There are the cut leaves of the Japanese maple, the large leaves of the hosta and the small, dainty fern-like leaves of the Corydallis ochroleuca. Each green is distinct and mixed together they are actually quite colorful.

An excerpt from Chen's notes on Corydallis:

"This is a delicate and elegant class of perennials like their relative, Dicentra. The blue flowered varieties are particularly precious, but they are not the easiest to grow here. I like Corydallis enough that I tolerate some of them that tend to self-sow wildly, bordering on weedy. Fortunately, they are relatively easy to weed...

Corydallis ochroleuca is an important filler plant for me; both for the foliage and the flowers...."

Read more and see the Chen's collection of Corydallis here.

Another beautiful Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum 'Shigitasu sawa' which Chen 

says is one of his favourite maples.

When I was going through my pictures, I came across this planting and was surprised to see hostas and conifers grouped together. I had always thought that most conifers needed sun. So I asked Chen about it. 

"I would estimate that this part of the bed is at least in 50% shade, if not more. Those conifers are not afraid of shade at all, especially the Alberta Spruce (I have some in very dense shade). The blue conifer in the front and the bright green conifer behind it are the common Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Boulevard' and Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gracilis' respectively. They can take full sun to a fair amount of shade.", Chen tells me.

What's nice about this combination: I love the way Chen has echoed the bluish-green color of the Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Boulevard' with the frosty, blue-green Hosta 'Regal Splendor'. The lime colored hosta in foreground is Hosta 'Silk Kimono'.

The maroon foliage of the Japanese Maple makes a perfect counterpoint to all the cool greens.

I am embarrassed to admit that I used to think hostas were kind of boring! In truth, I just hadn't seen anyone use them quite so imaginatively. 

Plant combination: Hosta 'Sum and Substance' (upper right) and Hosta 'Smooth Sailing' (in the foreground) light up in contrast with the deep, dark plum leaves of Ligularia 'Britt Marie Crawford'. Not only is this color combination sublime, this mix of perennials offers an interesting variety of leaf shapes and sizes as well.

Chen speaks highly of the contribution hostas make to any garden, particularly a northern one:

"I would think hosta is an essential perennial for the northern garden...They add an element of large leaf texture that is not prevalent in northern vegetation (in comparison with tropical environments).

 Depending on the variety, hosta can take full sun to full shade, and are hardy and (practically) maintenance free (except for the HVX virus). Unfortunately, it is often relatively expensive for a fair sized specimen, and takes years to develop into a nice size clump...Although I am not a Hosta addict by any means, I do like to acquire a few each year since they are so useful, elegant and take care of themselves."

Here is another combination that includes conifers in shade conditions. Chen tells me that this area, "... only sees sunlight very early in the morning, and for a very short time at noon, when the sun passes between the large conifer, and the cover of a forty plus year old crabapple tree. I would estimate that this part of the garden has 60% shade or more."

Plant combination: The light green conifer in the back is Juniperus rigida. As well as several hosta, there is a Japanese maple on the left: Acer shirasawanum 'Jordan' and the lime colored maple on the right: Acer palmatum 'Purple Ghost'. In the foreground with tall red flower spikes is Rheum palmatum 'Atrosanguineum'.

Why this combination works: Each and every plant contributes something new and appealing to the grouping. Every green is distinct and the deep maroon of the maple adds a nice punch of warm color. The mixture of scale and texture makes an area that is largely green anything, but boring.

A few more examples from Chen's hosta collection. On the left is Hosta 'Gypsy Rose' and on the lower right is Hosta 'Orange Marmalade'. The lime colored hosta behind it is Hosta 'Ogon Amagi'.

In the foreground of the righthand picture you can see a very unique hosta cultivar that has upright foliage. In the picture on the right you can see Chen's photograph of it in flower. This is Hosta 'Praying Hands'.

Read more and see additional hosta pictures here.

This paring is quite stunning don't you think? 

Plant Combination: The vivid chartreuse of Hosta 'Sun Power' practically glows in contrast with the deep maroon of the Japanese Maple, Acer palmatum 'Tamuke yama'.

Up next will be perennials and plant combinations from 'Garden Canadensis' for sun.

A Fall Intermission

 

I love taking photographs at this time of year. 

The hard edge of summer sun is gone. The light is mellow and golden. 

Fall leaves are not only colorful, they are translucent. The subtle underlying structure of veins is literally brought to light. 

In this post today are recent shots taken in the garden and around the neighbourhood.

Have a great weekend!